[GreenKeys] M15 How to disable unshift-on-space?

Sat Sep 19 01:20:40 EDT 2015

adding this  to public   archive as here is my value   for  the upi unit  
which I took home  to clean lube and  adj.

my other units have  anything  from  nothing  to  a   regular  looking  
fuse and holder that  looks   like   one  used inside a  radio.

as to the value  I am not there  right  now.but the   UPI recent 15   ((HA  
You can buy 4  for 70  bucks?!?!?!?

here is a new listing  for my fusetron fuse by another   mfr...  someone 
may want to educate us  on  valuses   needed

 (http://www.zoro.com/i/G3449686/)  *   _Fuse, 3-2/10A, T, 125VAC, 
Screw-In,  PK4_ (http://www.zoro.com/i/G3449686/) 
    *   $70.25 
    *   BUSSMANN 
    *   G3449686T-3-2/10

In a message dated 9/18/2015 9:41:24 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
drlegendre at gmail.com writes:

Ed,  

Have had the fuses replaced with +what+ ?? ;-)

On Fri, Sep 18, 2015 at 11:14 PM, <_COURYHOUSE at aol.com_ 
(mailto:COURYHOUSE at aol.com) > wrote:

our  latest  UPI  ro 15  has the screw in  fuse!   all other 15s  we have 
had  the fuses   replaced.
Ed#  _www.smecc.org_ (http://www.smecc.org/) 

In a message dated 9/18/2015 8:59:38 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, 
_drlegendre at gmail.com_ (mailto:drlegendre at gmail.com)  writes:

Wow, so the household fuse is correct - that's just nuts!  Maybe I'll pull 
it and bypass with a 1A slow-blow and maybe a CIL to deal  with inrush 
currents. The present arrangement just isn't what I'd call  proper 'protection'.. 

In other news, I think I've corrected the aberrant behavior. And yes,  it 
does seem like it's all down to that very fine clearance between the  cutout 
lever and the vertical extension of the SP function lever. I added  a few 
turns of solid metal foil tape to the little dog-leg on the end of  the cutout 
lever, to reduce the clearance to nearly nil.. maybe 0.002 or  so.

And the USOS is gone, at least for now. Obviously I have a lot more  to 
learn about this mechanism, but for now, I'm stunned that such a tiny  little 
gap could allow the unwanted behavior. My hunch is that something  else, 
somewhere, is either improperly adjusted, improperly installed, or  just plain 
worn. Very surprising, but again, I have much to learn.

I will post a pic of the connector box in a few minutes. But for now,  the 
machine is behaving as I'd like... =)

On Fri, Sep 18, 2015 at 10:09 PM, Jim Haynes <_jhhaynes at earthlink.net_ 
(mailto:jhhaynes at earthlink.net) > wrote:

All  the ones I've seen use the screw-type household fuse, except it's
an  odd value like 6 1/4 amp slow-blow.  Remember that the motor  draws
much more starting current than running current.  Also  some installations
include a 120VDC power supply, and there is often  a convenience outlet
on the side of the base where the repair guy can  plug in a soldering
iron or a light fixture.  Not that I'd want  to be soldering on the wiring
while it is plugged into the power  line.

The bare machine doesn't care about polarity.  Those  which include a
polar relay on the base do.  And there are some  variables like a motor
control relay that is controlled by  polarity.

Can you send a picture of the Bell System box you are  talking  about?

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