[GreenKeys] What an Idiot!

[Robert Jarratt]

Yes, I am familiar with the lightbulb trick, it's a good idea, I will do
that when I get the new fuses. I think the best thing will be to put the
bulb on the 240V side.

Thanks

Rob

> -----Original Message-----
> From: greenkeys-bounces at mailman.qth.net [mailto:greenkeys-
> bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ken Schwieker
> Sent: 26 May 2013 12:12
> To: GreenKeys at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [GreenKeys] What an Idiot!
> 
> If connecting power to a questionable circuit it is a good idea to limit
the
> current by inserting a medium wattage incandescent light bulb in series
with
> the input power line. Since you are unlikely to have a 120 volt bulb it
may be
> OK to use a 220 volt bulb in the 120 volt line or the primary of the step
down
> transformer. The motor would need to be temporality out of the circuit to
> keep it from loading down the part you are testing.
> 
> Ken S
> 
> 
> At 04:27 AM 5/26/2013, you wrote:
> >Some additional information.
> >
> >When I first blew the plug fuses I suspected a short. So I tested across
the
> >pins of the plug, sure enough when I switched the switch to LOCAL I
> measured
> >a short. Removing all the plugs from the back of the CCU (this is a
computer
> >i/o set) the short went away. I narrowed it down to the connector marked
> >with a '4' on the CCU back panel. The wires are very hard to trace
because
> >they are tightly packed so I am not sure where the wires for this go. I
> >suspect this is not normal. However, once I connected it back to 110V,
the
> >machine stayed on, running open, and the fuse in the plug did not blow
> >again, so I wonder if that apparent short is normal?
> >
> >I have since checked the internal fuses and found that two of them have
> >blown. Looking from the back of the CCU they are the two on the right. I
> >also checked the fuse on the far right, near the paper tape punch , which
is
> >fine. I wonder if it would be safe to replace the blown fuses and try
> >switching on again? With other potentially damaged components could I
> end up
> >doing more damage if I don't check and repair them first?
> >
> >I believe the fuses have to be "slow blow". Farnell lists some as "slow
> >blow" and some as "time delay", not sure if there is a difference, but
for
> >one of the fuses they list "time delay" ones but not any "slow blow"
ones.
> >Is there a difference?
> >
> >Regards
> >
> >Rob
> 
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