[GreenKeys] Molex Connectors and pins

[Keith Mc]

Lee Mushel <herbert3 at ...> wrote: 
> Keith,
> What a wonderful contribution to the "art."   And I have printed your comments.   

Thanks! (Glad to help...) But does it make sense?   
I know a video or pics would be better, but I don't have that available now.

These tools never come with decent instructions.  I've had to learn it the 
hard way, over years of experiment and practice.  If someone ever finds a 
decent link to a video or pictorial page that describes this process, please 
post it here!  I'd love to find a nice wall chart with pictures, for my students.  

Pete Lancashire <pete at ...> wrote: 
> I want to 2nd the  pause in squeeze/pause/release. I usually sqeeze ->
> pause->squeeze->squeeze->release.

An excellent point, Pete.  I forgot to mention this.  
Please add this paragraph inline, to my description:

------------
> Keith wrote:
> > (Execute the BARE wire crimp)  SQUEEZE HARD.... Pause... Release...

If the electrical wire crimp zone is LONGER than the thickness of your
crimp tool, you should now make a series of "nibble crimps" along 
the zone by repeating this: 
... "Release.  Advance it SLIGHTLY (about 50% of the thickness of your tool,
without rotation of the wire).  Crimp again, HARD.  Repeat as necessary."

Treat it like eating an ear of corn... Nibble along the contact zone with 
the crimp tool, making micro-crimps up and down its length, until the 
entire length of the electrical contact crimp zone is well formed.
(Nibble, nibble, nibble... Yum! ;-)

> Looking from the end, you should now have a HEART SHAPED CRIMP.
> [...etc...]
------------

Pete also wrote:
> From time to time on the E a ratchet crimper for Molex pins will show up,
> if your persistent you can get one for $20-$30. The negative is they have
> only one or two sizes per die.

Hmmm... I try to be VERY careful with "ratcheting tools" that force you 
to complete a full pressure cycle before it lets you release the object.  
They CAN make life easier at times, but they can also do some SERIOUS 
physical damage if you ever get a finger caught in them!  
Even those with release tabs sometimes make you ADD more pressure 
before it will allow the tab to actuate.  (YOW!)

So, if you DO get a ratcheting tool, be SURE it not only comes with 
an "emergency release tab" on it, but that does NOT require you to 
add more pressure to actuate it.  (I always test this kind of tool for 
this before purchasing it, by clamping it on a nail or a tube, and 
seeing what it takes to disengage it... :-)

IF it doesn't have a release tab already, then at least investigate asap 
HOW to unlock it mid-cycle with a paperclip or something (well before 
you NEED to know this! :-), and DOCUMENT the procedure in its tool case.

Trust me... It only takes getting a finger caught ONCE in a non-releasing
tool, and being forced to try to saw the @#$# tool's pivot apart 
(without crushing your finger, cutting it off or burning it with cutting heat), 
to learn this! <grin>

I'm also a parent.  I refuse to have a tool around here that can't be 
released mid-cycle without adding even more damage to a caught finger.

IF you are a machinist-type you can sometimes mod the tool to ADD 
a release tab or cable.  But that's a pain, and sometimes might require 
a full re-engineering of the tool. 

Your mod options are normally:  
1) Drill a hole in the ratchet arm, and add a paperclip or cable to it.
This makes a "pull string" to the tool. (Add a bead to the end, for grabbing.)

2) Take out the ratchet plate, lay it on a piece of similar thickness metal,
and trace and cut out a new one, with a finger tab.  Replace it in the tool.

I've only done this a couple of times, on vendor-custom tools where 
an alternative tool simply wasn't available.  

...and yes, that foresight HAS come in handy (more than once in fact). <grin>

- Keith Mc.
--
"Whenever you invent something to be Idiot-Proof, someone invents a better Idiot..."