[GreenKeys] WU Model 100 series and CLEANING

[DR HOUSE]

On 16 Dec 2011, at 12:12 AM, David Burns wrote:

Don (Thanks, etc.)

     I'd most appreciate any insight into cleaning the mechanisms. ...
..David


Hi David,

Unless you are very familiar with the workings of the machine in  
question I never recommend dunking the machines.  Take the time to  
look over what the parts of the printer are most likely there to do.   
If they need to move, clean the area with low or no odor mineral  
spirits. (always use a ventilated area... a small fan helps) Some  
people like to use a vacuum cleaner or an air compressor, however  
these can cause springs to come off and fly who knows where.  Small  
artist brushes dipped in mineral spirits (or a solvent* if really  
needed) will clean up dried grease.  Look for fabric felts that are  
red or brown when oiled but white when dried out.  These need to be  
oiled.  Grease put on the end of a popsicle stick (or a trimmed one)  
can be carefully rubbed onto the springs in the clutches if they do  
not have fabric wicks for oil.  As you make progress you can put the  
printer on the base and turn the motor over by hand to see if parts  
are moving smoothly.  Rust is the enemy... water and steel do not mix  
well without corrosion.  A rusting spring will eventually break and  
finding and replacing them can be very difficult.

A very true statement is "patience is a virtue."  The cleaned, greased  
and oiled mechanism stands a much better chance of operating without  
major damage.  Parts for the 100 series machines are about as rare as  
George Washington's false teeth.  Remember also that some of the cups  
you see are not all for oil, some are intended for a grease gun.  You  
are wise to obtain a manual and become familiar with the machine  
before applying both DC and AC.  We like to avoid the sound of  
stripping gears and smoke rising from the once operating printer.

In addition to the above it is helpful to have a very well-lighted  
work area with surfaces protected with a piece of oil cloth or  
something similar.  You can purchase spring hooks cheaply at the  
Granger or McMaster-Carr web sites.  A complete set runs in the  
neighborhood of $20.
They also have screw starting screwdrivers with a magnet on one end  
which is very handy. If a spring comes off the spring hooks are a  
blessing.

Above advice is exactly what I am going to do with the model 105 I  
have here that my cousin sent me about 7 years ago.  I have also  
discovered recently that the different spray cans at home depot that  
are used for camouflage have a couple of shades of green that are  
almost exact matches for Bell Green (darker) and Western Union Green  
(lighter) for sprucing up the cabinet.

Getting back to the dunking methodology...  It can work nicely.  I  
have done this with Model 28 typing units and I can see where it might  
work pretty well with a Model 14 reperforator or strip printer.  Most  
of Teletype parts were carefully nickel plated and clean well using  
this method. However, certain parts of the unit should be removed or  
protected during the process.  I remove the stunt box and it's  
associated wiring before dunking.  Also I protect the selector  
mechanism by covering it with a heavy plastic freezer bag.  It can be  
covered pretty well if the wiring terminals are detached from the  
coils.  After applying or dunking the mechanism with the cleaning  
solvent or simple green, etc... ( I try to do this when my loving  
bride is out of the house) I put the unit into the dishwasher and run  
it on the heavy duty cycle with the high heat option.  When the wash  
and dry cycles are complete I remove it carefully.  It will be HOT!   
and look it over for moisture.  Our clothes dryer has a "sweater rack"  
which fits in on the front opening so I set the unit on that and run  
the clothes dryer on a high setting.  If this method is not available  
the use of an hair dryer to rid the unit of any moisture can be used.   
The heat guns that are used for heat shrink tubing can be used but I  
never use the hottest settings.

After all of the above you need to get out the lubrication manual and  
make every lubrication point that is shown in the manual.  Then clean  
the stunt box manually and replace it and put the terminals back on  
the selector magnet coils.  Always look for anything other than  
shining metal, if the metal is reddish or brownish it needs to be  
cleaned. Even if all is well it is a good idea to remove and re- 
inspect the unit after it has run or sat for a couple of days and  
again look for any moisture or red or brownish coloring.

* Solvents...  The most powerful solvent I use is "Sea Foam" which is  
used to clean carburetors.  However in addition to taking away all  
kinds of crud, it can also take your breath away or if used in the  
basement near a furnace or water heater... blow your house up...

I sincerely hope this helps you.  As my Bell manager used to say...  
"Remember my advice is worth only what you are paying me for it!"

All my best,
Don K9TTY
aka TTY MAN