[GreenKeys] Model 15 startup

[Lee Mushel]

No argument with any of your suggestions save one: that miserable WD-40.
That is good only for mechanically challenged folk with who have only bladed
screwdrivers of the wrong size!  I've been trying to get people to use
Tri-Flow (now owned by the Krylon products group, I think) which is
absolutely the best lubricant around.   It is  impossible to get an Uzi to
fire without it and does well on bicycles and locks.   It does not age to
some goopy mess and I have won pinewood derbys with it as well.

You will probably have to order it on line---it used to be handled by the
chain hardware stores but I haven't seen it lately....

73

Lee   K9WRU
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "George B. Hutchison" <w7tty at readysetsurf.com>
To: "BOB LAAG" <RLAAG at PACBELL.NET>; <greenKeys at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2007 12:41 AM
Subject: Re: [GreenKeys] Model 15 startup


> The right hand end of the mainshaft should have a plug in it sealed
> with a small leather washer.
>
> Take a good pressure oil can and using a shop rag for a gasket remove
> the plug and pump oil into the mainshaft and watch the hole on the
> middle of the selector cam sleeve retaining screw (it says "Left Hand
> Thread" on it)on the opposite end. If the main shaft is clear, you
> should see oil dribbling out of that hole. It will be hard to see
> some of the other places, but you should see something around the
> main shaft clutch which is right inside the left hand bearing of the
> main shaft. There could also be some oil dribbling out of the spacing
> clutch felt at about the center of the shaft.
>
> If you don't see any oil coming out of anywhere, then it might be a
> good idea to pull and disassemble the main shaft and see if you can
> see oil coming out of the cross-wick holes in the main shaft as you
> pump it in. If you see nothing, then chances are the main shaft is
> plugged, and you will have to drill it out. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DRILL
> OUT A MAINSHAFT THAT HAS NOT BEEN DISASSEMBLED. YOU WILL RUIN THE
> SHAFT AND GET A BIG SPANKING FROM JACK HART!!
>
> A good substitute for the main shaft wick could be made by doubling
> up a 30 inch length of box twine and twisting it a bit as you draw it
> into the main shaft using a length of say #22 solid bare wire. Just
> form a little hook in the end and hook the loop in the twine in it.
> Trim the ends so that they are flush with each end of the shaft.
>
> Cross wicks would be nice, but inasmuch as they are rarer than
> chicken teeth, don't sweat it, just pump oil in the main shaft once
> every couple of weeks.
>
> A main shaft drill is waiting for you at Home Despot, in the
> electrical tools. Get one 1/8" in diameter 12 to 14 inches long. They
> are commonly used nowadays for installing security system wiring.
>
> Don't be afraid of the main shaft. They don't bite. When
> dis-assembling the shaft simply put the assorted pieces in the same
> order as you remove them, in the same direction as they were on the
> shaft. A main shaft can only go together one way.
>
> In the event you have a hard time getting some of the pieces off the
> shaft, it generally means that the oil has fried and is gluing the
> pieces on. Stuck on pieces can be removed by lovingly placing the end
> of the shaft on  a piece of soft wood, such as cedar or white pine,
> and use controlled tapping, rapping, or beating as necessary  with a
> leather or rawhide mallet and you can usually convince them to come
> off. Don't ever directly strike the parts with a steel hammer, or use
> a steel rod to transfer the whacks from the hammer. A brass rod can
> be used judiciously, or use a piece of hardwood dowel.
>
> Use 400 or 600 grit emery cloth to polish the shaft and remove any
> varnish, and correspondingly use an appropriately sized gun cleaning
> brush to remove the crud from the interior of any parts.
>
> Really stubborn varnish can also be vanquished by soaking the
> afflicted shaft or part in a product called "Oil Eater", by a company
> called Kafco. It is available in most of the larger Costco
> warehouses. Beware - Oil eater will turn your skin to mush if you
> keep your fingers in it. When satisfied that Oil Eater has done it's
> thing, rinse all parts in very hot water for a couple of minutes, dry
> with compressed air or in a 250 degree oven, and then spray liberally
> with WD-40.
>
> Products such as Amway Industrial Cleaner or Oil Eater will go into
> the grain boundaries of the metal and remove some of the deeper
> lubrication. Heating in an oven opens the grain boundaries, and the
> WD-40 will by nature just wander right in, allowing the part to once
> again expect to lead a longer life.
>
> I will once again render my opinion that Slick 50 is a brand of snake
> oil, sold by varlets, cutpurses, carpetbaggers  and other shady gents
> off the tail of a covered wagon. The best grease I have found is
> Conoco Super-Sta #2. It is a lithium-based grease with a tackiness
> agent added to it. Costs a little over 2 bucks for a ten-ounce tube.
> Not available everywhere. Check your phone book for a dealer near
> you, or call Western Union for Operator 25.
>
> Oil is either 10 weight or 20 weight paraffine based stuff,
> non-detergent. Hard to find, but it is still around.
>
> Hint to the fledglings - - -
>
> Having trouble with unexplainable garble when your model 15 selector
> seems to be adjusted all peachy-keen??
>
> Try the Selector Rap Test!!! - - - Take a hard handled screwdriver
> (wood or plastic, not rubber) and rap the big screw which is the
> pivot for the rangefinder indicator swing arm. If your machine goes
> ka-chunk every time you hit that screw, chances are that the trip
> latch/selector arm stop are worn beyond fixing. You need new ones.
> Symptoms are the same for both pulling-magnet and holding magnet
> selectors.
>
> Enough of Grampa George's model 15 clinic for now.
>
> 73,
>
> George - W7TTY
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GreenKeys mailing list
> GreenKeys at mailman.qth.net
> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/greenkeys
>
>