[GreenKeys] Model 15 startup

[George B. Hutchison]

The right hand end of the mainshaft should have a plug in it sealed 
with a small leather washer.

Take a good pressure oil can and using a shop rag for a gasket remove 
the plug and pump oil into the mainshaft and watch the hole on the 
middle of the selector cam sleeve retaining screw (it says "Left Hand 
Thread" on it)on the opposite end. If the main shaft is clear, you 
should see oil dribbling out of that hole. It will be hard to see 
some of the other places, but you should see something around the 
main shaft clutch which is right inside the left hand bearing of the 
main shaft. There could also be some oil dribbling out of the spacing 
clutch felt at about the center of the shaft.

If you don't see any oil coming out of anywhere, then it might be a 
good idea to pull and disassemble the main shaft and see if you can 
see oil coming out of the cross-wick holes in the main shaft as you 
pump it in. If you see nothing, then chances are the main shaft is 
plugged, and you will have to drill it out. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DRILL 
OUT A MAINSHAFT THAT HAS NOT BEEN DISASSEMBLED. YOU WILL RUIN THE 
SHAFT AND GET A BIG SPANKING FROM JACK HART!!

A good substitute for the main shaft wick could be made by doubling 
up a 30 inch length of box twine and twisting it a bit as you draw it 
into the main shaft using a length of say #22 solid bare wire. Just 
form a little hook in the end and hook the loop in the twine in it. 
Trim the ends so that they are flush with each end of the shaft.

Cross wicks would be nice, but inasmuch as they are rarer than 
chicken teeth, don't sweat it, just pump oil in the main shaft once 
every couple of weeks.

A main shaft drill is waiting for you at Home Despot, in the 
electrical tools. Get one 1/8" in diameter 12 to 14 inches long. They 
are commonly used nowadays for installing security system wiring.

Don't be afraid of the main shaft. They don't bite. When 
dis-assembling the shaft simply put the assorted pieces in the same 
order as you remove them, in the same direction as they were on the 
shaft. A main shaft can only go together one way.

In the event you have a hard time getting some of the pieces off the 
shaft, it generally means that the oil has fried and is gluing the 
pieces on. Stuck on pieces can be removed by lovingly placing the end 
of the shaft on  a piece of soft wood, such as cedar or white pine, 
and use controlled tapping, rapping, or beating as necessary  with a 
leather or rawhide mallet and you can usually convince them to come 
off. Don't ever directly strike the parts with a steel hammer, or use 
a steel rod to transfer the whacks from the hammer. A brass rod can 
be used judiciously, or use a piece of hardwood dowel.

Use 400 or 600 grit emery cloth to polish the shaft and remove any 
varnish, and correspondingly use an appropriately sized gun cleaning 
brush to remove the crud from the interior of any parts.

Really stubborn varnish can also be vanquished by soaking the 
afflicted shaft or part in a product called "Oil Eater", by a company 
called Kafco. It is available in most of the larger Costco 
warehouses. Beware - Oil eater will turn your skin to mush if you 
keep your fingers in it. When satisfied that Oil Eater has done it's 
thing, rinse all parts in very hot water for a couple of minutes, dry 
with compressed air or in a 250 degree oven, and then spray liberally 
with WD-40.

Products such as Amway Industrial Cleaner or Oil Eater will go into 
the grain boundaries of the metal and remove some of the deeper 
lubrication. Heating in an oven opens the grain boundaries, and the 
WD-40 will by nature just wander right in, allowing the part to once 
again expect to lead a longer life.

I will once again render my opinion that Slick 50 is a brand of snake 
oil, sold by varlets, cutpurses, carpetbaggers  and other shady gents 
off the tail of a covered wagon. The best grease I have found is 
Conoco Super-Sta #2. It is a lithium-based grease with a tackiness 
agent added to it. Costs a little over 2 bucks for a ten-ounce tube. 
Not available everywhere. Check your phone book for a dealer near 
you, or call Western Union for Operator 25.

Oil is either 10 weight or 20 weight paraffine based stuff, 
non-detergent. Hard to find, but it is still around.

Hint to the fledglings - - -

Having trouble with unexplainable garble when your model 15 selector 
seems to be adjusted all peachy-keen??

Try the Selector Rap Test!!! - - - Take a hard handled screwdriver 
(wood or plastic, not rubber) and rap the big screw which is the 
pivot for the rangefinder indicator swing arm. If your machine goes 
ka-chunk every time you hit that screw, chances are that the trip 
latch/selector arm stop are worn beyond fixing. You need new ones. 
Symptoms are the same for both pulling-magnet and holding magnet 
selectors.

Enough of Grampa George's model 15 clinic for now.

73,

George - W7TTY