[GreenKeys] Cleaners and lubricants
Rdelgatto
rdelgatt at optonline.net
Thu May 10 10:00:09 EDT 2007
Group,
I have good experience with cleaning old mechanical/electrical stuff.
My cleaner of choice for non oil type dirts would be Spray Nine, made in the
USA.
It worked really well cleaning up a W.U. green mod. 15 case in all the
crevices of
the crackle paint job. No harm to the paint if not allowed to soak.
As a solvent for greases and oils the best is 2+2 gum cutter, made by
Berkebile.
It will dissolve everything but metal parts if left to soak. It will leave
metal parts clean and bright. 2+2 will destroy most paints (enamel) and all
plastics.
The original purpose is to clean carburetors, most difficult to clean.
A less aggressive cleaner is Brake Parts Cleaner, made by Johnsen's it is
really good for a quick spray and blow to de lint an item and get ready for
oil or grease.
All items are easily available in most good auto parts stores. They
shouldn't be
mixed or inhaled or used with out goggles.
Oils and greases, I happen to like light oil sprays, like chain oil. It is
clear
and clingy with out too much solvents to evaporate away and it is hard to
miss anything.
As greases go I use Heavy Duty Red Grease by Lawson Products. It is very
clingy,
near impossible to wipe off and comes as a spray or tub. The correct way to
use these
things (the government way that is) oil, brush in grease and recoil. The red
grease may not
look original on the machines but with the gears getting harder by the day
to find
this will help make them last.
Good Luck
Bob, Kc2ltx
-----Original Message-----
From: greenkeys-bounces at mailman.qth.net
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Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 12:26 AM
To: greenkeys at mailman.qth.net
Subject: GreenKeys Digest, Vol 40, Issue 11
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Today's Topics:
1. Re: Need M19622/1-005 Stuffing Tubes (Bob Camp)
2. Re: Model 15 (Larry Tighe)
3. Re: Model 15 (George B. Hutchison)
4. Re: LESU loop supply for the Model 28 (Brooke Clarke)
5. Re: Need M19622/1-005 Stuffing Tubes (Don Robert House)
6. Re: Model 15 (Don Robert House)
7. Re: Model 15 (Don Robert House)
8. Fwd: Model 26 Manuals on eBay.... my comments...
(Don Robert House)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 9 May 2007 07:24:12 -0400
From: Bob Camp <ham at cq.nu>
Subject: Re: [GreenKeys] Need M19622/1-005 Stuffing Tubes
To: Don Robert House <drhouse at mchsi.com>
Cc: Greenkeys <greenkeys at mailman.qth.net>
Message-ID: <F9C41A57-D88A-4CD7-B01E-672A7B9BC7EB at cq.nu>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
Hi
As in these
http://www.dornequipment.com/milspecs/html/MIL-S-19622-1B.html
and not glass bulbs that glow when operating ....
Bob
On May 8, 2007, at 11:20 PM, Don Robert House wrote:
> Friends,
>
> I need three stuffing tubes to complete my project.
>
> The Specification number is M19622/1-005
>
> Please help if you can.
>
> Thanks,
> Don
> K9TTY
> _______________________________________________
> GreenKeys mailing list
> GreenKeys at mailman.qth.net
> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/greenkeys
>
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 9 May 2007 09:21:34 -0500
From: "Larry Tighe" <larryradio at worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: [GreenKeys] Model 15
To: "Roy Morgan" <roy.morgan at nist.gov>, <greenkeys at mailman.qth.net>
Message-ID: <00d801c79245$5a07d550$0903a8c0 at ljt>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=response
Thanks Roy et. al.,
I'm going to clean out all the WD-40 and the suggested Kroil once the parts
are moving again.
I've been using 30 weight oil on the M28's and spray on grease from Lithium
cans. I'll do the same with the M-15. I've heard many times to remove the
WD-40 residue...so will do that...with thinner and do the whole lube job
from scratch.
Thanks to all for very helpful advice...and I'm sure learning a lot about
this M-15. Cannot wait to have her running and beautiful again....That RCA
Communications label looks so neat :>)
Lar
K2JIA
www.antiquetelephone.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roy Morgan" <roy.morgan at nist.gov>
To: "Larry Tighe" <larryradio at worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 9:06 AM
Subject: Re: [GreenKeys] Model 15
> At 09:27 PM 5/8/2007, you wrote:
>
>>I'm still trying to loosen up some stuck parts. WD-40 is doing a good job
>>penetrating.
>
>
> Larry,
>
> Clean off the WD-40 after you are done loosening things. I got a Model 15
> machine from a fellow who'd "Kept it running right with WD-40". One
> mechanism way down in the middle of the thing was frozen tight with the
> stuff. I think it was the carriage return or line feed actuating bar.
>
> I had to use lacquer thinner to loosen it up, with a jack knife blade
> hammered into the space at the and of the bushing to move it. Once freed
> up and oiled, it operated perfectly..
>
>
> Roy
>
>
> - Roy Morgan, K1LKY since 1959 - Keep 'em Glowing
> 13033 Downey Mill Road, Lovettsville, VA 20180
> Phone 540-822-5911 Cell 301-928-7794
> Work: Voice: 301-975-3254, Fax: 301-975-6097
> roy.morgan at nist.gov --
>
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 9 May 2007 08:39:38 -0700
From: "George B. Hutchison" <w7tty at readysetsurf.com>
Subject: Re: [GreenKeys] Model 15
To: "Larry Tighe" <larryradio at worldnet.att.net>, "Roy Morgan"
<roy.morgan at nist.gov>, <greenkeys at mailman.qth.net>
Message-ID: <001801c79250$41e73960$0200a8c0 at MAINCOMP>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=response
Larry - - -
Some suggestions for you as you progress with your model 15...
1 - The felt which is visible on the selector cam sleeve looks a
little thin. If you want I will rummage around and send you a pair of
new ones. As manufactured they were about 3/32" thick and were
impregnated with graphite.
2 - Check to see that the main shaft is clear. You can do this by
taking a rag to use as a gasket and pull the plug on the right hand
end of the main shaft and using a good pump oiler (Plews), pump the
mainshaft full of oil such that if it is clear it will run out of the
center hole in the selector cam sleeve retaining screw on the left
end of the shaft.
If it is not clear, then you would be wise to remove the shaft from
the machine, disassemble it, drill it out with a long 1/8" drill
(readily available at most Lowes or Home Despot stores, the kind that
are used for installing security sensors), and getting the dried out
oil and dead felt and cross-wicks from the center of the shaft.
I have some sample felt that would work well to replace the center
felt in the main shaft. I just don't quite know where it is right
now.
3 - Machine speed - The motor you have is an 1800 RPM AC Synchronous
unit. If the machine is set-up for sixty speed it will have the
number 74912 stamped on the end of it. If the machine was used in
Telex service it will have sixty-seven wpm gears, the part numbers
for which I forget.
4 - The selector - You have a Holding magnet selector. If you are
careful you will not have to make any adjustments to it if you remove
it from the machine (3 screws).
5 - Tech Manual. One of the best manuals on the 15 ever printed was
the military TM 11-352. The first few pages are pretty useless
because you will not need to know how to tear apart the
soldered-together military shipping box, but the nuts and bolts of
disassembly, adjustments, etc., are well-defined and presented in a
very logical sequence. It does not cover the Holding Magnet Selector,
however, and you'll have to get a Teletype Manual or a Bell System
practice to get the adjustment sequence.
5 - Lubricants - Don House swears by Slick 50 Magic Spray-On Snake
Oil or some such magic potion. I don't.
Use a # 10 Parafine-based motor oil and your machine will love you.
Grease? Many like the spray on stuff. I have found that Conoco
Super-Sta is the best ever made. It is a #2 Lithium based grease that
has had a tackiness agent added to it such that the molecules stick
together very well, and adhere to the metal to which it is applied.
It does not dry out ever, and is good for other things like chainsaw
live noses, and assembling needle bearings in Model 28 Reperf and/or
perforator main shafts, etc. If someone suggests finding a can of
genuine KS-7471 grease, punch him in the nose and walk away. It will
dry in the can and look like the surface of the Mojave Desert, only a
dark brown.. If you apply it to you machine - shame on you...
6 - Cleaning - Costco has available in many stores a spiffy solution
called "OIL EATER". It is manufactured by a company called KAFCO, and
sells for around 8.93 a gallon. It is pretty much an equivalent to
Amway Industrial Cleaner, and is much cheaper.
When using either of the mentioned solutions, it is imperative that
the parts be thoroughly rinsed in hot water and dried in an oven.
When the parts are removed from the oven they should be around 250
degrees, and immediately dumped in lightweight oil or sprayed with at
least WD-40. The reason for this is that both products are quite
thorough in their degreasing and will get down into the grain
boundaries of the metal, removiing the lubrication. Heating the parts
opens the grain boundaries enough to allow the lubricant in which
they are dipped to seep in and re-establish deep lubrication. If this
is not done, the life of the parts is shortened.
General Note To All GreenKeyers - - -
Gotta get going and clean the garage so the big sort can start.
First things to be sorted will be the collection of teletype manuals.
I have many duplicates. Some are spoken for, but I find that I will
not need ten copies of the 28ASR Manuals.
I will make the excess of my manual collection available at no charge
to GreenKeyers. I brought home tons of boxes from my Quiznos Store
and will box them in sets. I will not ship them for free.
When done I will post a list on GreenKeys and they'll go on a first
asked, first to get basis. The recipient to pay the freight.
Also, I am planning a run down the coast in the near future.
Available to some lucky individual will be a Model 35 ASR. and a
couple of 28 KSRs and one or two ASRs.
I have a Mite that was promised to someone on GreenKeys, but I forget
who it was. Please prompt my memory and I'll get it outa here.
Jackson Q. Hart, Famous teletype whiz and guitar-picker will be
getting his long-awaited FRXD with super-rare cover.
Simply put - I have too much "STUFF".
73 - - -
George - W7TTY
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 09 May 2007 09:27:48 -0700
From: Brooke Clarke <brooke at pacific.net>
Subject: Re: [GreenKeys] LESU loop supply for the Model 28
To: Brooke Clarke <brooke at pacific.net>
Cc: greenKeys at mailman.qth.net
Message-ID: <4641F684.8050706 at pacific.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Hi:
I've learned from Hal Communications that LESU may mean "L" for the model 28
and ESU for "Electrical Service Unit".
In this web page:
http://www.kekatos.com/teletype/gil/M28.htm
It says "This is the Electrical-Service-Unit (LESU) for the AN-UGC-6K." And
I
think thre's a Bi-Polar relay show.
This Model 28 brochure says the model 28 can generate either polar or
neutral
signals. http://hans.presto.tripod.com/scan/teletype/28_02.html
Still looking for a polar loop power supply.
Have Fun,
Brooke Clarke
http://www.PRC68.com
http://www.precisionclock.com
Brooke Clarke wrote:
> Hi:
>
> I asked HAL Communications about their LP1200 loop supply for use on the
> 5-A stock ticker and they are out of stock and the price is extreamly
high.
> http://www.prc68.com/I/WU5A.shtml
>
> Bill Henry recomended the LESU loop supply for the Model 28. Where to
> find one of these bi-polar loop supplies?
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 9 May 2007 15:24:04 -0500
From: Don Robert House <drhouse at mchsi.com>
Subject: Re: [GreenKeys] Need M19622/1-005 Stuffing Tubes
To: Bob Camp <ham at cq.nu>
Cc: Greenkeys <greenkeys at mailman.qth.net>
Message-ID: <CBE6E355-AEC6-44FE-96DF-B19BA87C3834 at mchsi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
Yes Bob,
Sadly Dorn will sell only to wholesale vendors for the military.
Thanks for sharing the latest update.
Don
On 9 May 2007, at 6:24 AM, Bob Camp wrote:
Hi
As in these
http://www.dornequipment.com/milspecs/html/MIL-S-19622-1B.html
and not glass bulbs that glow when operating ....
Bob
On May 8, 2007, at 11:20 PM, Don Robert House wrote:
> Friends,
>
> I need three stuffing tubes to complete my project.
>
> The Specification number is M19622/1-005
>
> Please help if you can.
>
> Thanks,
> Don
> K9TTY
> _______________________________________________
> GreenKeys mailing list
> GreenKeys at mailman.qth.net
> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/greenkeys
>
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 9 May 2007 15:37:30 -0500
From: Don Robert House <drhouse at nadcomm.com>
Subject: Re: [GreenKeys] Model 15
To: "Larry Tighe" <larryradio at worldnet.att.net>
Cc: Greenkeys <greenkeys at mailman.qth.net>
Message-ID: <1A475A30-8A0D-4219-B6F3-50DE5F8ED9FA at nadcomm.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
Bell System KS oil for Teletype machines was SAE 20
Don
On 9 May 2007, at 9:21 AM, Larry Tighe wrote:
Thanks Roy et. al.,
I'm going to clean out all the WD-40 and the suggested Kroil once the
parts are moving again.
I've been using 30 weight oil on the M28's and spray on grease from
Lithium cans. I'll do the same with the M-15. I've heard many times
to remove the WD-40 residue...so will do that...with thinner and do
the whole lube job from scratch.
Thanks to all for very helpful advice...and I'm sure learning a lot
about this M-15. Cannot wait to have her running and beautiful
again....That RCA Communications label looks so neat :>)
Lar
K2JIA
www.antiquetelephone.com
----- Original Message ----- From: "Roy Morgan" <roy.morgan at nist.gov>
To: "Larry Tighe" <larryradio at worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 9:06 AM
Subject: Re: [GreenKeys] Model 15
> At 09:27 PM 5/8/2007, you wrote:
>
>> I'm still trying to loosen up some stuck parts. WD-40 is doing a
>> good job penetrating.
>
>
> Larry,
>
> Clean off the WD-40 after you are done loosening things. I got a
> Model 15 machine from a fellow who'd "Kept it running right with
> WD-40". One mechanism way down in the middle of the thing was
> frozen tight with the stuff. I think it was the carriage return or
> line feed actuating bar.
>
> I had to use lacquer thinner to loosen it up, with a jack knife
> blade hammered into the space at the and of the bushing to move
> it. Once freed up and oiled, it operated perfectly..
>
>
> Roy
>
>
> - Roy Morgan, K1LKY since 1959 - Keep 'em Glowing
> 13033 Downey Mill Road, Lovettsville, VA 20180
> Phone 540-822-5911 Cell 301-928-7794
> Work: Voice: 301-975-3254, Fax: 301-975-6097
> roy.morgan at nist.gov --
_______________________________________________
GreenKeys mailing list
GreenKeys at mailman.qth.net
http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/greenkeys
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Wed, 9 May 2007 15:39:18 -0500
From: Don Robert House <drhouse at nadcomm.com>
Subject: Re: [GreenKeys] Model 15
To: "George B. Hutchison" <w7tty at readysetsurf.com>
Cc: greenkeys at mailman.qth.net, Roy Morgan <roy.morgan at nist.gov>, Larry
Tighe <larryradio at worldnet.att.net>
Message-ID: <E579B7BD-D519-4F28-8793-AED4EB1D093D at nadcomm.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
George is veritable fountain of good information... I have many
driving gears for model 14, 15, and 19.
Let me know your needs.
Don
On 9 May 2007, at 10:39 AM, George B. Hutchison wrote:
Larry - - -
Some suggestions for you as you progress with your model 15...
1 - The felt which is visible on the selector cam sleeve looks a
little thin. If you want I will rummage around and send you a pair of
new ones. As manufactured they were about 3/32" thick and were
impregnated with graphite.
2 - Check to see that the main shaft is clear. You can do this by
taking a rag to use as a gasket and pull the plug on the right hand
end of the main shaft and using a good pump oiler (Plews), pump the
mainshaft full of oil such that if it is clear it will run out of the
center hole in the selector cam sleeve retaining screw on the left
end of the shaft.
If it is not clear, then you would be wise to remove the shaft from
the machine, disassemble it, drill it out with a long 1/8" drill
(readily available at most Lowes or Home Despot stores, the kind that
are used for installing security sensors), and getting the dried out
oil and dead felt and cross-wicks from the center of the shaft.
I have some sample felt that would work well to replace the center
felt in the main shaft. I just don't quite know where it is right now.
3 - Machine speed - The motor you have is an 1800 RPM AC Synchronous
unit. If the machine is set-up for sixty speed it will have the
number 74912 stamped on the end of it. If the machine was used in
Telex service it will have sixty-seven wpm gears, the part numbers
for which I forget.
4 - The selector - You have a Holding magnet selector. If you are
careful you will not have to make any adjustments to it if you remove
it from the machine (3 screws).
5 - Tech Manual. One of the best manuals on the 15 ever printed was
the military TM 11-352. The first few pages are pretty useless
because you will not need to know how to tear apart the soldered-
together military shipping box, but the nuts and bolts of
disassembly, adjustments, etc., are well-defined and presented in a
very logical sequence. It does not cover the Holding Magnet Selector,
however, and you'll have to get a Teletype Manual or a Bell System
practice to get the adjustment sequence.
5 - Lubricants - Don House swears by Slick 50 Magic Spray-On Snake
Oil or some such magic potion. I don't.
Use a # 10 Parafine-based motor oil and your machine will love you.
Grease? Many like the spray on stuff. I have found that Conoco Super-
Sta is the best ever made. It is a #2 Lithium based grease that has
had a tackiness agent added to it such that the molecules stick
together very well, and adhere to the metal to which it is applied.
It does not dry out ever, and is good for other things like chainsaw
live noses, and assembling needle bearings in Model 28 Reperf and/or
perforator main shafts, etc. If someone suggests finding a can of
genuine KS-7471 grease, punch him in the nose and walk away. It will
dry in the can and look like the surface of the Mojave Desert, only a
dark brown.. If you apply it to you machine - shame on you...
6 - Cleaning - Costco has available in many stores a spiffy solution
called "OIL EATER". It is manufactured by a company called KAFCO, and
sells for around 8.93 a gallon. It is pretty much an equivalent to
Amway Industrial Cleaner, and is much cheaper.
When using either of the mentioned solutions, it is imperative that
the parts be thoroughly rinsed in hot water and dried in an oven.
When the parts are removed from the oven they should be around 250
degrees, and immediately dumped in lightweight oil or sprayed with at
least WD-40. The reason for this is that both products are quite
thorough in their degreasing and will get down into the grain
boundaries of the metal, removiing the lubrication. Heating the parts
opens the grain boundaries enough to allow the lubricant in which
they are dipped to seep in and re-establish deep lubrication. If this
is not done, the life of the parts is shortened.
General Note To All GreenKeyers - - -
Gotta get going and clean the garage so the big sort can start.
First things to be sorted will be the collection of teletype manuals.
I have many duplicates. Some are spoken for, but I find that I will
not need ten copies of the 28ASR Manuals.
I will make the excess of my manual collection available at no charge
to GreenKeyers. I brought home tons of boxes from my Quiznos Store
and will box them in sets. I will not ship them for free.
When done I will post a list on GreenKeys and they'll go on a first
asked, first to get basis. The recipient to pay the freight.
Also, I am planning a run down the coast in the near future.
Available to some lucky individual will be a Model 35 ASR. and a
couple of 28 KSRs and one or two ASRs.
I have a Mite that was promised to someone on GreenKeys, but I forget
who it was. Please prompt my memory and I'll get it outa here.
Jackson Q. Hart, Famous teletype whiz and guitar-picker will be
getting his long-awaited FRXD with super-rare cover.
Simply put - I have too much "STUFF".
73 - - -
George - W7TTY
_______________________________________________
GreenKeys mailing list
GreenKeys at mailman.qth.net
http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/greenkeys
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 9 May 2007 23:18:41 -0500
From: Don Robert House <drhouse at nadcomm.com>
Subject: [GreenKeys] Fwd: Model 26 Manuals on eBay.... my comments...
To: Greenkeys <greenkeys at mailman.qth.net>
Message-ID: <85BA8493-A6AF-424F-97F6-46B0B2821FB8 at nadcomm.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
Begin forwarded message:
From: Don Robert House <drhouse at nadcomm.com>
Date: 9 May 2007 11:06:50 PM CDT
To: "H.E.Robert Weir-L.V.C.C." <ueoguy at yahoo.com>
Cc: greenkeys at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: Model 26 manuals on ebay
Hi Bob,
The fellow wanted those practices very bad. You know I would have
shared. My last bid with shipping included was $75.00 I just could
not go any higher without attending divorce court.
Somewhere at our museum is a photocopy of an early practice on the
M26 but it is hard to read and not complete.
The winning bidder was a late comer or I would have asked for
volunteers to help pay for this set of practices.
I will write to the winning bidder and see if they will see me copies
of the documents.
Don
K9TTY
On 9 May 2007, at 10:04 PM, H.E.Robert Weir-L.V.C.C. wrote:
Hi Don,
I'm sorry you lost the bid on those manuals, I was hoping to get a
copy from you!
Anyone on the list know the chap who won, wbretz?
Anyway, I was surfing for tty info, and found a interesting tidbit
from Dartmouth University.....
In 1940 a milestone event, not well remembered until recently
(Loveday 1977), took place at Dartmouth. Dr. George Stibitz of the
Bell Telephone Laboratories demonstrated publicly for the first time,
at the annual meeting of the American Mathematical Society, the
remote use of a computer over a communications line. The computer was
a relay calculator designed to carry out arithmetic on complex
numbers. The terminal was a Model 26 Teletype.
Just Bob!
------------------------------
_______________________________________________
GreenKeys mailing list
GreenKeys at mailman.qth.net
http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/greenkeys
End of GreenKeys Digest, Vol 40, Issue 11
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