[GreenKeys] grunting 28 KSR?

Eugene Hertz ehertz at tcaf.org
Sat Jun 3 00:14:05 EDT 2006


Ok, I found what is happening when the grunting occurs. Now I have to find the solution.

On the keyboard clutch, there is a disc, part number 150028 (pg. 13 of manual 1149B chg 13, jun 1965).  This disc spins around and then a lever (not sure the name or the part number) drops into an indentation on this disc which stops the disc from turning.  This happens after every character is pressed. One revolution and then the lever drops into the detent on the disc and the disc stops rotating.

It seems that sometimes (unpredictable) this lever does not properly fall into the detent. Instead it seems to try to move into the detent, but it seems its position is just off enough that it is stopped by the high point just before the dip into the detent. In other words it *seems* that if the disc rotated just a bit more, the lever would drop down into the detent.  The noise occurs when the lever does not fall down into the detent, and instead seems to hover over it and a lot of loud vibration occurs. Another character or two (hence another rotation or two) will get the lever back into the detent and the noise will stop.

So! Is this some timing adjustment? Everything seems VERY well lubricated at this point (including my ceiling after receiving a nice release of oil from spinning parts!)

Any thoughts what might be preventing this lever from dropping into the detent?

thanks again to EVERYONE who has been replying to my emails and helping (if not just for the moral support, which I need!)

Eugene


>-----Original Message-----
>From: jhhaynes at earthlink.net [mailto:jhhaynes at earthlink.net]
>Sent: Friday, June 2, 2006 09:10 PM
>To: 'Eugene Hertz'
>Subject: Re: [GreenKeys] grunting 28 KSR?
>
>Do you have manuals? 
> 
>The behavior you describe for the keyboard shaft is the way things work. 
>There is a clutch which disengages at the end of every character, allowing 
>the shaft to turn freely until another key is struck. These clutches 
>are somewhat dependent on inertia, so if you turn the shaft by hand rather 
>than at full speed the clutch may not disengage properly. But perhaps 
>the grunting is coming from a clutch that fails to disengage even when 
>motor driven. That would be consistent with the problem only happening 
>at 60 wpm, since that is the slowest speed. You need to look at the 
>manual to get an idea how Model 28 clutches work; then you can see if 
>the ones you have are correctly adjusted and are operating correctly. 
> 
>On the motor problem, yep, there is a starter relay and a capacitor. 
>When you first apply power to the motor there is excessive current in 
>the running winding and that pulls in the starter relay. With it pulled 
>in the starting winding and capacitor are connected across the line. 
>When the motor gets up to speed the current decreases and allows the 
>starting relay to drop out. So if the starter relay contact is not 
>closing, or if the capacitor is shot, the motor will sit there not 
>starting. 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>jhhaynes at earthlink dot net 
> 
> 
>




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