[GreenKeys] TTY-Connect FAQ

gil smith gil at vauxelectronics.com
Thu Jul 29 19:39:03 EDT 2004


Hi folks:

I was hoping to tell you that the firmware doc and file were ready today, 
but alas, I still need to do some more work on them.  Sometime next week, I 
suppose.  Below is a FAQ I started from questions I have received and 
answered.  I will upload this to the site next week as well, and update it 
as new questions come in.

I'm off to the mountains until Tueday, to get away from this 105+ degree 
heat for a few days, so don't look for any email replies until then.

thanks for all your kind words, by the way.

gil

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TTY-Connect FAQ

7-28-04
gil smith
gil at vauxelectronics.com
480-354-5556
------------------------

Q:  Where is the documentation for TTY-Connect?
A:  Files/pictures/docs are 
at:  http://www.vauxelectronics.com/gil/tty-connect/


Q:  Do you have parts kits, completed boards, or full systems for sale?
A:  Sorry, only the pcb and micro are available from me.


Q:  Do you have dimensions for the PCB and mounting holes?
A:  I kept all mounting hole and connector-centers on a 0.1" grid, to make 
it easy to quickly measure
     the board and transfer locations to the chassis.  Yeah, a dimensioned 
drawing for chassis
     holes would be nice.  Have not had time for such a thing.


Q:  Why did you spec the Sescom chassis (it seems too small)?
A:  The Sescom rack-mount box is nice for a couple of reasons:
         a) it has flat panels that slip into extrusions, so if you want to 
change
            a hole layout later, you can just change the panel.
         b) the panels are 1/16" aluminum (not steel), so it is easy to 
drill and nibble holes.
         c) since the panels are flat, you can use a punch press (if 
available).
         d) they are available in a variety of sizes -- I happen to be 
using the
             2U-high-by-7-inch-deep version -- if you want more room 
inside, get a bigger one,
             like the 10-inch-deep version.  But you can mount the unit in 
anything you'd like.
     Note that the Sescom box's lower-rear extrusion needed to be notched 
where the two pcb mounting
     standoffs are located.  This is easy to do since the extrusions are 
also aluminum.


Q:  Why is the assembly drawing cut off around edges?
A:  That is all of the assembly drawing that is available in pdf form.  It 
is really
     only for the pcb components anyway, and the "cut-off" stuff merely 
shows tentative
     locations for transformers etc.


Q:  The parts list mentions an optional $83 LCD -- what is it for?
A:  Well, the Matrix-Orbital lcd is not supported in firmware at this time, 
but the pcb has a
     header that provides the signals (it uses I2C, not a simple 
logic-level uart, like other
     serial lcds).  The objective is to provide a front panel control for 
the unit, and maybe
     a monitor mode.  But I am not committing to anything at this point (I 
should not have
     put the lcd in the docs).  It is a nice lcd module, but don't buy one 
yet.
     And a front-end on a PC will do the same thing.


Q:  I am poking through my junk box for parts, and I have various 
optoisolators.  Can I use them?
A:  The places where the 4N37 isolators are shown could use other parts, 
but I'd rather not get
     into that.  The 4N37s are cheap and easy to find.   DO NOT substitute 
the high-voltage H11D2.


Q:  I'd like to use sockets where possible.  Do some parts need to be 
soldered, or can I use sockets?
A:  Not necessary, but I would socket all chips, including the 6-pin dip 
optos.  Easier test/repair.


Q:  What's the story on the two ways to wire up loops HV1 and HV2, using 
either 80VDC or 160VDC?
A:  The high-voltage loops may be configured for either 80VDC or 
160VDC.  To use 80VDC, the
     transformer primaries are wired in series, and to use 160VDC, the 
transformer primaries
     are wired in parallel. The power resistor values change too, of course.
     I really recommend the 80VDC option, since things run much 
cooler.  With the heatsinks listed
     in the parts list, the unit set to full duplex (which burns additional 
power), and the loop
     set for 60-mA (for max power), temperatures read:

         config       xfrm           heatsink
         --------------------------------------
         80VDC     100 degrees      125 degrees
         160VDC    110 degrees      175 degrees

     175 degrees (F) is just too darned hot, in my opinion.  If you really 
must use a 160V loop,
     it should have a larger heatsink and/or fan. If you use 80V, the 
heatsink listed in the parts
     list should be fine with vertical mounting and simple convection cooling.


Q:  I am curious as to why the transformers run so hot especially in the 
160-volt mode? You show
     the transformers to be 43 VA and I calculate that the current at 115 
volts should be 370 ma.
     Only drawing 60 ma should mean that the transformer is loafing.
A:  It is not the transformers that run hot, it is the 
power-resistor/heatsink that gets toasty.
     The xfrms are oversized at 43VA, but a smaller xfrm is about the same 
price, and I like to be
     conservative, especially on a power design.  Which is why I don't like 
a heatsink running
     at 175 F (160V loop).  With an 80V loop, the heatsink is only 125 F, 
and the lower voltage
     is safer as well.  Also, to get a worst-case scenario, these 
measurements were made in Arizona,
     during summer, in a garage where the ambient air was over 100 degrees.


Q:  Depending on the tty-connect chassis size, and what is stacked on top 
or bottom of it
     in the rack, will heat be a problem?
A:  If you are using 160V loops, a fan (and bigger heatsinks) would be a 
good idea.
     With 80V loops it should not be necessary.  Good point about what is 
above/below the
     unit in the rack.  You would want to mount tty-connect at the top of 
the equipment so
     it does not heat anything else up, and you would want to leave a rack 
space or two
     above/below it for convection air.


Q:  I was checking parts list against schematic and found two C10 
capacitors.  Also U11 and U12
     are not on the parts list.  Would you clarify?
A:  Oops.  Yes the schematic should show C11 (not C10) near U11;  it is a 
bypass cap (0.1 uF)
     for U11/12.  The assembly drawing and silk are correct.
     Actually, the schematic should show U11, U12, and C11 as optional, 
which is why they are
     not on the parts list.  U11 and U12 are external eeproms (non-volatile 
memory) -- there
     are many sizes of eeprom that fit into these sockets.  But there is a 
small eeprom built
     into the pic, which stores the tty-connect machine configuration.  At 
this time, U11 and U12
     are not used.


Q:  I thought the pic micro was already programmed, but apparently not -- 
what's up with that?
A:  I programmed the micros with the bootloader, but did not load the 
firmware.  You will need
     to load the firmware from a PC after your unit is built (it just takes 
a few minutes).
     You need a serial cable (DB9-F to DB9-M, straight-wiring) from the PC 
to TTY-Connect.
     Get the application file on the website called 
PIC-downloader.exe.  This little standalone app
     runs on winblows xp/98, and allows you to send the actual tty-connect 
object code to the pic.
     To use, PIC-downloader.exe, you need to also get the tty-connect.hex 
file for download to the pic.
     If (or when), I make a change to the code, I will upload the latest 
version to the website,
     and folks can use PIC-downloader to update their tty-connect system 
with the latest version.
     All of this magic made possible by flash memory in these 16Fxxx pics 
(as opposed to the
     one-time-programming of the 16Cxxx parts).  Details are in an appendix 
of the firmware doc.


Q:  I did not get the micro from you as I already have one -- what do I 
need to do to program it?
A:  For you folks that want to burn your own PICs, and have access to a 
programmer to do so, you
     need to obtain a PIC16F876-20/SP chip (mouser part 579-PIC16F87620SP 
is $5.44 ea).  On the
     website, is a file called bootloader.hex.  This small file gets burned 
into the pic -- it
     resides in the upper hundred or so bytes, and provides bootload 
capability over the serial port.
     This is the only time the pic needs to be in the programmer.  Since 
most folks don't have a
     programmer, I am doing this step for them when they get the pic from 
me.  Both the bootloader
     code and the downloader are simple freeware goodies -- I have used 
them for years, and
     they perform flawlessly.  After burning the bootloader into the pic, 
put it into the tty-connect
     board, and refer to the above question for loading the actual 
tty-connect firmware.


Q:  Are you providing source code for the pic?
A:  Sorry, no.


Q:  Is there a PC GUI for using the system?
A:  No.  TTY-Connect uses a simple command/message 232 interface for 
control and programming.
     It is easy enough to use a terminal emulator like HyperTerminal to 
enter commands with a
     few keystrokes.  It is also feasible to embed these commands into a PC 
program,
     and provide a GUI front-end.  Be my guest, if you are so inclined.


Q:  I have seen more than a few tty machines that have a ground path on the 
keyboard side. It's not
     common to see it on the magnet side but it can happen. It's probably a 
real good idea to have
     people ohm out their machines before hooking tty-connect to them.  A 
ground short on either
     side will smoke the board or at least blow a fuse, won't it?
A:  All loop circuitry is floating from chassis/earth ground, and is 
opto-isolated from the
     232/TU section.  If you have just a single half-duplex loop to a tty, 
and one side of the
     loop (either side actually) is grounded to earth, it will NOT affect 
operation, will not
     blow a fuse, nor will it damage the board.
     But, if you are running two loops in full-dup mode, I suppose certain 
ground combinations
     could end up causing problems.  However, I DID presume that your tty 
loops are floating.
     Checking machine wiring to know what you have is a good 
idea.  Bringing out a pair of
     wires for the selmags, and a pair for the keyboard contacts is the 
simplest.



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