[Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 208, Issue 13

Peter Reinzuch pete.r at mac.com
Tue Aug 24 18:26:05 EDT 2021


Message 17
How much for the K3 package  ….call me 
760-318-0186

Peter VE7REZ 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 24, 2021, at 3:04 PM, elecraft-request at mailman.qth.net wrote:
> 
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> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
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> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re: K4 operating manual now available as both .pdf and .html
>      (David Gilbert)
>   2. Re: KX2 temperature (Howard Hoyt)
>   3. Re: Reversed K4 Rear Panel Drawing (Bill Steffey NY9H)
>   4. Re: KX2 temperature (Gary Slagel)
>   5. Re: K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED] (Michael Kholodov)
>   6. Elecraft CW Net Report (kevin)
>   7. Re: K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED] (jerry)
>   8. Re: K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED] (Henk de Vries)
>   9. Re: K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED] (Mike Kholodov)
>  10. KIO2 and KUSB for K2? (Paul Huff)
>  11. Re: KIO2 and KUSB for K2? (jerry)
>  12. 40 METER NET / 80 METER NET 8-22-21 (Steve Hall)
>  13. Re: KIO2 and KUSB for K2? (Don Wilhelm)
>  14. Re: KIO2 and KUSB for K2? (Paul Huff)
>  15. Any update on KIO3BUPKT_KIO3B Upgrade Kits for the K3 (Bill Wiehe)
>  16. For Sale: KX3 + KXPA100 + PX3 + MH3 (VA7KL)
>  17. For Sale: K3S + KPA500 + KAT500 + P3 + TXSensor + MH2 (VA7KL)
>  18. Ground Wire & Coax (James Bennett)
>  19. Re: Ground Wire & Coax (Phil Kane)
>  20. Re: Ground Wire & Coax (Jim Brown)
>  21. Re: For Sale: K3S + KPA500 + KAT500 + P3 + TXSensor + MH2 (Dave)
>  22. Re: Ground Wire & Coax (James Bennett)
>  23. Re: Ground Wire & Coax (Walter Underwood)
>  24. Re: Ground Wire & Coax (Jim Brown)
>  25. Re: Ground Wire & Coax (Phil Kane)
>  26. KX3, PX3, KXPA00 for trade or sale. (marvwheeler at nwlink.com)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2021 20:35:28 -0700
> From: David Gilbert <ab7echo at gmail.com>
> To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K4 operating manual now available as both .pdf
>    and .html
> Message-ID: <dface4b4-5061-32a2-5e5d-ce6267eb30d2 at gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> 
> 
> I never understood why Elecraft put out the PDF file as white text on a 
> black background in the first place.? It can't be printed, and if you 
> have to read it online the html version makes more sense.? It just seems 
> lazy to me for them not to have converted it on their end.
> 
> Dave?? AB7E
> 
> 
> 
> On 8/21/2021 7:29 PM, Alan Bloom wrote:
>>> NOTE:? The operating manual has a black background
>> 
>> I can make the manual (K4 Built-In Operating Manual, rev C9.pdf) look 
>> the way I want on the screen (black text on a white background with 
>> images rendered in correct colors) in Adobe Reader by selecting:
>> 
>> Edit > Preferences > Accessibility
>> 
>> and then:
>> 
>> select "Replace Document Colors"
>> select "Use High-contrast colors"
>> unselect "Only change the color of black text or line art."
>> unselect "Change the color of line art as well as text."
>> select "High-contrast color combination:" = "Black text on white".
>> 
>> However, although it looks correct on the screen, when I print it it 
>> still comes out with the black background.
>> 
>> I'm just using the free version of Adobe Reader.? Perhaps someone with 
>> a paid-up version can get it to print correctly (print to a printer or 
>> print to another PDF file).
>> 
>> Alan N1AL
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On 8/5/2021 4:08 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
>>> Rev. C9 of the K4 operating manual can be found here:
>>> 
>>> https://elecraft.com/pages/k4-high-performance-direct-sampling-sdr-manuals
>>> 
>>> In addition to the .html version, we're now providing a .pdf, as 
>>> requested.
>>> 
>>> NOTE:? The operating manual has a black background, consistent with 
>>> the color scheme used for all text boxes on the K4's LCD. Obviously, 
>>> printing a hard copy wouldn't be advised, as you would consume the 
>>> entire ink supply at your local Office Depot. It cannot be easily 
>>> converted to a white background given all of the text styles used, so 
>>> this isn't likely to happen in the short term.
>>> 
>>> 73,
>>> Wayne
>>> N6KR
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2021 02:15:30 -0400
> From: Howard Hoyt <hhoyt at mebtel.net>
> To: Elecraft at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX2 temperature
> Message-ID: <e3302d24-6596-0cb5-f328-cf3ce58ad8cf at mebtel.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> 
> Hi Gary,
> 
> We have been manufacturing the Pro Audio Engineering Kx22 Heatsink kit 
> since 2016:
> 
> https://proaudioeng.com/pae-kx22-heatsink-elecraft-kx2/ 
> <https://proaudioeng.com/pae-kx22-heatsink-elecraft-kx2/>
> 
> The Kx22 provides 200% or more key-down time in transmit and there is 
> more data on the website.? The good news is the do not impact the size 
> of the rig at all.? By this I mean we engineered them to only have fins 
> which protrude only as far as the BNC connector on the right panel where 
> the PA FETs are attached.? Any case the KX2 fit in before it will still 
> fit once the Kx22 is attached.
> 
> We have several distributors around the world which sell them including 
> GEMS in the USA, Lutz Electronics in Switzerland and others.
> 
> Cheers & 73,
> Howie / WA4PSC
> proaudioeng.com
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2021 07:52:03 -0400
> From: Bill Steffey NY9H <ny9h at arrl.net>
> To: Wayne Burdick <n6kr at elecraft.com>,    Elecraft Reflector
>    <elecraft at mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Reversed K4 Rear Panel Drawing
> Message-ID: <40d3f0e9-741b-0c31-e02e-8938716684ed at arrl.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> 
> for my K3 I made a reverse upside down? copy from the manual, and placed 
> it on the top cover rear? ...
> 
> it showed a top down drawing so I could reach back and all would be in 
> proper order top to bottom...
> 
> yet to do for my k4,,,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2021 12:45:32 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Gary Slagel <gdslagel at yahoo.com>
> To: "elecraft at mailman.qth.net" <elecraft at mailman.qth.net>,    Howard
>    Hoyt <hhoyt at mebtel.net>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX2 temperature
> Message-ID: <1894447140.555085.1629636332637 at mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
> 
> I have trouble with the KX2 keyer malfunctioning when I'm operating with the radio sitting outside in direct sunlight.? It happens after 20 or 30 minutes of steady contest style QSO's on SOTA activations.? I haven't spent any time troubleshooting other then trying to keep it shaded with whatever is handy to droop over it.??
> I wonder if the?Pro Audio Engineering Kx22 Heatsink kit would help with that issue?
> Gary?KT0A
> ? 
> 
>    On Sunday, August 22, 2021, 12:18:20 AM MDT, Howard Hoyt <hhoyt at mebtel.net> wrote:  
> 
> Hi Gary,
> 
> We have been manufacturing the Pro Audio Engineering Kx22 Heatsink kit 
> since 2016:
> 
> https://proaudioeng.com/pae-kx22-heatsink-elecraft-kx2/ 
> <https://proaudioeng.com/pae-kx22-heatsink-elecraft-kx2/>
> 
> The Kx22 provides 200% or more key-down time in transmit and there is 
> more data on the website.? The good news is the do not impact the size 
> of the rig at all.? By this I mean we engineered them to only have fins 
> which protrude only as far as the BNC connector on the right panel where 
> the PA FETs are attached.? Any case the KX2 fit in before it will still 
> fit once the Kx22 is attached.
> 
> We have several distributors around the world which sell them including 
> GEMS in the USA, Lutz Electronics in Switzerland and others.
> 
> Cheers & 73,
> Howie / WA4PSC
> proaudioeng.com
> 
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft at mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to gdslagel at yahoo.com   
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2021 22:45:16 -0400
> From: Michael Kholodov <michkhol at yahoo.com>
> To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED]
> Message-ID: <4C2DBB50-4890-429F-8A61-24BB3F65560F at yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> 
> If you have the tuning step 10Hz, tune to, say, 7.200.56 and then switch to coarse tuning, the display will show 7.200.5. But this 60Hz offset will still be present. Then no matter how you tune at the coarse setting, you will mistune. To fix that you should always reset the fine tuning offsets to zero before switching to coarse. 
> It is apparently a bug in the software because the normal expectation would be to reset all fine offsets to zero automatically after switching to coarse tuning. 
> 
> Mike, AB3VN
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2021 20:23:51 -0700
> From: kevin <kevinr at coho.net>
> To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report
> Message-ID: <235b52fa-ac51-7a1f-b726-9da7bafcb437 at coho.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> 
> Good Evening,
> 
> ?? Cross-training is good.? I'm am learning to use a single lever 
> paddle.? However, when I make a mistake with it I get tense, which 
> causes more mistakes.? I tend to miss the dit side when my thumb 
> stiffens up.? Then I remembered my breathing exercises.? They calm me 
> down, take my mind off of the mechanics and back on what I am sending.? 
> Breathing correctly slows things down to establish a rhythm.? So hours 
> on the firing line, trying to hit the X at 600 yards helped me send 
> smoother CW.
> 
> ? Conditions were better than I had expected.? They were close to what 
> Bill, AE6JV experienced last night.? Real world propagation reports beat 
> predictions.? Twenty meters was medium quiet with moderate to weak 
> signals.? Copy was OK because there was not much noise nor was there 
> much QSB.? Forty meters was not like that.? It had QSB and some summer 
> storms.
> 
> ?? The crews fighting all the forest fires from British Columbia down 
> to California are being overworked.? California has the most, and the 
> largest fires.? I am very happy the winds are from offshore.? If they 
> were from any other direction it would be smokey up here.? It has been 
> very nice to breath fresh air this week.? Hopefully some of the rain I 
> am getting will travel East and South.
> 
> 
> ? On 14050.5 kHz at 2200z:
> 
> NO8V - John - MI
> 
> W0CZ - Ken - ND
> 
> K6XK - Roy - IA
> 
> AB9V - Mike - IN
> 
> K4JPN - Steve - GA
> 
> 
> ? On 7047.5 kHz at 0000z:
> 
> K0DTJ - Brian - CA
> 
> K6PJV - Dale - CA
> 
> 
> Until next week 73,
> 
> ?? Kevin.? KD5ONS
> 
> 
> -
> 
> 
> 
> Chris Stevens:?? Today, a belated apology to the much maligned Chicken 
> Little. It turns out you were right - the sky is falling. The National 
> Space Administration informs us that Uncle Sam's Com-Sat 4 satellite is 
> in a rapidly decaying orbit. That's their way of saying a ton of angry 
> space trash is heading back home at fifteen thousand miles an hour. What 
> does that make me think of? Makes me think of a triceratops, innocently 
> munching a palm frond when out of the sky, whammo, a meteor sucker 
> punches old mother Earth. Next thing you know, that triceratops, along 
> with a hundred and seventy-five million years of dinosaur evolution, is 
> nothing but history. To that unsung triceratops and all its kin, here's 
> a song for you...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 7
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 07:00:55 -0700
> From: jerry <jerry at tr2.com>
> To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED]
> Message-ID: <c767a0100e1cf3ed230dc4d8b6baa4f2 at tr2.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
> 
> On 2021-08-22 19:45, Michael Kholodov via Elecraft wrote:
>> If you have the tuning step 10Hz, tune to, say, 7.200.56 and then
>> switch to coarse tuning, the display will show 7.200.5. But this 60Hz
>> offset will still be present. Then no matter how you tune at the
>> coarse setting, you will mistune. To fix that you should always reset
>> the fine tuning offsets to zero before switching to coarse.
>> It is apparently a bug in the software because the normal expectation
> 
> OTOH, do you want the frequency to *change* when all you did was to hit 
> the "rate" button? The K2 behaves the same way.  This is one of those UI 
> things where there really is no "right" answer.
> 
>                    - Jerry KF6VB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 8
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 16:13:31 +0200
> From: Henk de Vries <hdv at kpnplanet.nl>
> To: jerry <jerry at tr2.com>, elecraft at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED]
> Message-ID: <4d45a696-041c-11ec-81f4-005056ab7447 at smtp.kpnmail.nl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> 
> No, one would not expect a change when that button is pressed.However as soon as the VFO is moved it would be logical that the frequency is in line with the display.So the first "VFO move" should remove the offset.73 HenkPA0C
> -------- Oorspronkelijk bericht --------Van: jerry <jerry at tr2.com> Datum: 23-08-2021  16:01  (GMT+01:00) Aan: elecraft at mailman.qth.net Onderwerp: Re: [Elecraft] K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED] On 2021-08-22 19:45, Michael Kholodov via Elecraft wrote:> If you have the tuning step 10Hz, tune to, say, 7.200.56 and then> switch to coarse tuning, the display will show 7.200.5. But this 60Hz> offset will still be present. Then no matter how you tune at the> coarse setting, you will mistune. To fix that you should always reset> the fine tuning offsets to zero before switching to coarse.> It is apparently a bug in the software because the normal expectationOTOH, do you want the frequency to *change* when all you did was to hit the "rate" button? The K2 behaves the same way.? This is one of those UI things where there really is no "right" answer.??????????????????? - Jerry KF6VB______________________________________________________________Elecraft mailing listHome: http://mailman.qth
> .net/mailman/listinfo/elecraftHelp: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htmPost: mailto:Elecraft at mailman.qth.netThis list hosted by: http://www.qsl.netPlease help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.htmlMessage delivered to hdv at kpnplanet.nl 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 9
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 16:07:51 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Mike Kholodov <michkhol at yahoo.com>
> To: "elecraft at mailman.qth.net" <elecraft at mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED]
> Message-ID: <1425626561.661655.1629734871030 at mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
> 
> I second that.
> 
> 73,?
> Mike AB3VN
> 
> On Monday, August 23, 2021, 10:14:29 AM EDT, Henk de Vries <hdv at kpnplanet.nl> wrote: 
> 
> 
> No, one would not expect a change when that button is pressed.However as soon as the VFO is moved it would be logical that the frequency is in line with the display.So the first "VFO move" should remove the offset.73 HenkPA0C
> 
> -------- Oorspronkelijk bericht --------Van: jerry <jerry at tr2.com> Datum: 23-08-2021? 16:01? (GMT+01:00) Aan: elecraft at mailman.qth.net Onderwerp: Re: [Elecraft] K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED] On 2021-08-22 19:45, Michael Kholodov via Elecraft wrote:> If you have the tuning step 10Hz, tune to, say, 7.200.56 and then> switch to coarse tuning, the display will show 7.200.5. But this 60Hz> offset will still be present. Then no matter how you tune at the> coarse setting, you will mistune. To fix that you should always reset> the fine tuning offsets to zero before switching to coarse.> It is apparently a bug in the software because the normal expectationOTOH, do you want the frequency to *change* when all you did was to hit the "rate" button? The K2 behaves the same way.? This is one of those UI things where there really is no "right" answer.??????????????????? - Jerry KF6VB______________________________________________________________Elecraft mailing listHome: http://mailman.qth
> .net/mailman/listinfo/elecraftHelp: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htmPost: mailto:Elecraft at mailman.qth.netThis list hosted by: http://www.qsl.netPlease help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.htmlMessage delivered to hdv at kpnplanet.nl 
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft at mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to michkhol at yahoo.com 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 10
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 13:22:49 -0400
> From: Paul Huff <paul142857 at gmail.com>
> To: Elecraft Email List <elecraft at mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: [Elecraft] KIO2 and KUSB for K2?
> Message-ID: <F76D444B-8958-45EA-AF30-B9E34B18BE2B at gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset=utf-8
> 
> I am thinking about adding the KIO2 RS-232 serial interface to my K2 but I don?t know very much about computer hardware.  Would the KUSB serial cable that is also sold by Elecraft then be needed to connect the KIO2 to the USB port on my Mac computer?  Or is there something else that would be needed?
> 
> Thanks and 73,
> 
> Paul - N8XMS
> 100% QRP CW
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 11
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 10:46:03 -0700
> From: jerry <jerry at tr2.com>
> To: Paul Huff <paul142857 at gmail.com>
> Cc: Elecraft Email List <elecraft at mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 and KUSB for K2?
> Message-ID: <c32e143e0d9d80ce2e66fb9a1b8378a1 at tr2.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed
> 
> On 2021-08-23 10:22, Paul Huff wrote:
>> I am thinking about adding the KIO2 RS-232 serial interface to my K2
>> but I don?t know very much about computer hardware.  Would the KUSB
>> serial cable that is also sold by Elecraft then be needed to connect
>> the KIO2 to the USB port on my Mac computer?  Or is there something
>> else that would be needed?
> 
> *** Not sure about the KIO2, but I did peruse the data on the serial
> port included on the KPA100, which is probably the same.  In the case of 
> the KPA100, you MUST use a custom cable - either supplied by Elecraft, 
> or made up with their schematic.  This is because Elecraft
> used "spare" pins on the serial connector for things that have nothing 
> to do with serial communications.
> 
>   For serial comm, you connect ONLY pins 2,3 and 5 on the 9-pin serial 
> connector.  pin 2 is TxD ( data from the K2 to the computer ), pin 3 is 
> RxD ( data from the computer to the K2 ), and pin 5 is the 
> common/ground.
> 
>   Again, this is specific to the KPA100; I don't know if it applies also 
> to the KIO2, but I suspect that it does.
> 
>             - Jerry KF6VB
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 12
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 15:00:35 -0400
> From: Steve Hall <99sunset at gmail.com>
> To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] 40 METER NET / 80 METER NET 8-22-21
> Message-ID:
>    <CALdUqNMbHMBH0O1VT6ZDDOr47gFMyigAd9zuye1Yw8YTtX9vrg at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
> 
> Thanks to all that assisted with relays.
> 40 METERS 7.280 1900Z
> WM6P STEVE GA K3S NETCONTROL
> W9EJB ED IN K3
> K9NU CARL OH FTDX101D
> K5PD PETER TX K3
> W3SA JOHN NC TS890
> WY3T TIM FL K3S
> W8UAN TIM MI TS-890
> NC0JW JIM CO KX3
> WN3T RICK VA IC7610
> K8IGU BRIAN OHIO TS2000
> KD9QDP RICK IL TS450
> N3RFO LES MD IC7300
> KC3HW JIM PA IC7300
> W2JHH JERRY GA IC7300
> N2TNQ LES NJ K3
> N2DTS BRETT NJ IC705
> 
> 80 METER NET 3.775 0100Z
> WM6P STEVE GA K3S
> K8NU CARL OH FTDX101D
> WY3T TIM FL K3S
> N8SBE DAVE MI K3S
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 13
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 15:25:22 -0400
> From: Don Wilhelm <don at w3fpr.com>
> To: Paul Huff <paul142857 at gmail.com>,    Elecraft Email List
>    <elecraft at mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 and KUSB for K2?
> Message-ID: <6f45e80b-f1e3-4de1-f3b5-d0931fe32fb6 at w3fpr.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> 
> Paul,
> 
> You must construct the special cable that is specified in the KIO2 
> manual - you can make it a short one if you want.
> That cable has a DE9 connector on the PC end which you can plug into a 
> serial port or into a USB to serial adapter - The KUSB sold by Elecraft 
> is a good choice -- if you choose another USB to serial adapter, make 
> certain it uses the FTDI chipset.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 8/23/2021 1:22 PM, Paul Huff wrote:
>> I am thinking about adding the KIO2 RS-232 serial interface to my K2 but I don?t know very much about computer hardware.  Would the KUSB serial cable that is also sold by Elecraft then be needed to connect the KIO2 to the USB port on my Mac computer?  Or is there something else that would be needed?
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 14
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 15:36:38 -0400
> From: Paul Huff <paul142857 at gmail.com>
> To: don at w3fpr.com
> Cc: Elecraft Email List <elecraft at mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 and KUSB for K2?
> Message-ID: <099E0B58-058A-48DE-A982-045F33C33ABF at gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset=utf-8
> 
> Thanks to the several who replied, and especially to Don for the exact information that I needed.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Paul - N8XMS
> 100% QRP CW
> 
> 
> 
>> On Aug 23, 2021, at 3:25 PM, Don Wilhelm <don at w3fpr.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Paul,
>> 
>> You must construct the special cable that is specified in the KIO2 manual - you can make it a short one if you want.
>> That cable has a DE9 connector on the PC end which you can plug into a serial port or into a USB to serial adapter - The KUSB sold by Elecraft is a good choice -- if you choose another USB to serial adapter, make certain it uses the FTDI chipset.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>> 
>> On 8/23/2021 1:22 PM, Paul Huff wrote:
>>> I am thinking about adding the KIO2 RS-232 serial interface to my K2 but I don?t know very much about computer hardware.  Would the KUSB serial cable that is also sold by Elecraft then be needed to connect the KIO2 to the USB port on my Mac computer?  Or is there something else that would be needed?
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 15
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 19:47:01 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Bill Wiehe <bw396ss at yahoo.com>
> To: "elecraft at mailman.qth.net" <elecraft at mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: [Elecraft] Any update on KIO3BUPKT_KIO3B Upgrade Kits for the
>    K3
> Message-ID: <741648886.770896.1629748021993 at mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
> 
> Just read July Newsletter and it is great to see that K4?s deliveries are 
> increasing. I was wondering if there is any update on when those of us who 
> place orders for items like the KIO3BUPKT_KIO3B Upgrade Kit for the K3, might 
> expect delivery.
> Thanks,
> Bill - W0BBI
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 16
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 17:26:32 -0700
> From: "VA7KL" <admin at va7kl.com>
> To: <Elecraft at mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: [Elecraft] For Sale: KX3 + KXPA100 + PX3 + MH3
> Message-ID: <[email protected]>
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Fully operational. Located in Vancouver Canada.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 17
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 17:37:55 -0700
> From: "VA7KL" <admin at va7kl.com>
> To: <Elecraft at mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: [Elecraft] For Sale: K3S + KPA500 + KAT500 + P3 + TXSensor +
>    MH2
> Message-ID: <[email protected]>
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Fully operational. Located in Vancouver Canada.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 18
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 19:42:27 -0600
> From: James Bennett <w6jhb at me.com>
> To: Elecraft Reflector Reflector <elecraft at mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: [Elecraft] Ground Wire & Coax
> Message-ID: <5097F77F-A7A1-470C-8D22-D94639B29ECF at me.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset=utf-8
> 
> Got a question for those folks who are knowledgeable in grounding equipment.
> 
> I?m installing a Zerofive flagpole antenna in my backyard. There will be several 8? ground rods at the antenna site. On one side of the house is my shack; on the other side is the home?s utility ground - a Ufer system. I?m also installing a KF7P entrance panel on the exterior wall of the shack. It?ll have several lightening arrestors and a very close-by 8? ground rod. Per N.E.C. specs, I need to tie the ground system at the shack entrance to the house utility ground - probably 150? or so from the coax entrance panel to that Ufer spot. My electrician said that a #4 solid copper wire running from the coax entrance panel to the Ufer point would suffice for keeping the grounds together. Looking at the ARRL book on grounding and bonding, it appears that what I?m going to do is to install a ?perimeter ground.? Not cheap, but the right thing to do.
> 
> Anyway, the path from that coax entrance panel to the antenna is about 100?. The first 50? of it is the same path that the #4 copper wire would take. Since the ground here in SW Idaho doesn?t freeze up, I?m looking at digging a 4-6? deep trench for these wires. Is there any reason why I cannot place the coax and the #4 copper wire in the same trench? Electrical reasons? RF reasons?
> 
> Jim / K7TXA
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 19
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 19:05:47 -0700
> From: Phil Kane <k2asp at kanafi.org>
> To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ground Wire & Coax
> Message-ID: <24f76a30-4fad-cf6c-efd5-bae065ab6d22 at kanafi.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> 
> On 8/23/2021 6:42 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft wrote:
> 
>> Anyway, the path from that coax entrance panel to the antenna is
>> about 100?. The first 50? of it is the same path that the #4 copper
>> wire would take. Since the ground here in SW Idaho doesn?t freeze up,
>> I?m looking at digging a 4-6? deep trench for these wires. Is there
>> any reason why I cannot place the coax and the #4 copper wire in the
>> same trench? Electrical reasons? RF reasons?
> 
> For safety reasons it is advisable to separate the perimeter ground wire 
> from any "utility" cables, including antenna cables.  I would dig the 
> trench to 12" or more, bury the ground wire, fill the trench halfway, 
> bury the antenna cable, put a layer of some bright-colored heavy plastic 
> over the cable (to identify it if necessary to dig it up again) and fill 
> the rest of the trench.  Put marker stakes around the perimeter.  If you 
> don't want to dig it by hand, rent a Ditch Witch.  Do not forget to call 
> Locating Services (8-1-1) to mark buried utility pipes and lines on your 
> property  before you dig - they are funded by the utilities.
> 
> Stuff I learned from my colleague Tom Croda (SK) who was the national 
> expert on communication site power and grounding.
> 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
> Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402
> 
> From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
> Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 20
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 20:27:33 -0700
> From: Jim Brown <jim at audiosystemsgroup.com>
> To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ground Wire & Coax
> Message-ID:
>    <41c92937-c111-f74c-2cc2-f1633b3bf9c0 at audiosystemsgroup.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> 
> On 8/23/2021 6:42 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft wrote:
>> Per N.E.C. specs, I need to tie the ground system at the shack entrance to the house utility ground - probably 150? or so from the coax entrance panel to that Ufer spot. 
> 
> There's a bit more to it than that. In essence, more grounds are better 
> and you can have as many as you want, but they must ALL be bonded 
> together. That includes power, telco, CATV, shack, etc.
> 
> My electrician said that a #4 solid copper wire running from the coax 
> entrance panel to the Ufer point would suffice for keeping the grounds 
> together. Looking at the ARRL book on grounding and bonding, it appears 
> that what I?m going to do is to install a ?perimeter ground.?
> 
> Not quite -- it would be a perimeter ground if that #4 (yes, big enough) 
> were connecting driven rods spaced at least 1.5 - 2x their length around 
> the perimeter.
> 
> Do you have the first or second edition of the book? Ward and I worked 
> through some of the issues involved with situations like yours for the 
> second edition.
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 21
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 20:28:01 -0700
> From: Dave <dave at nk7z.net>
> To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] For Sale: K3S + KPA500 + KAT500 + P3 +
>    TXSensor + MH2
> Message-ID: <1d5bbfd9-5e98-8edd-dbd1-bff33715a4e1 at nk7z.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> 
> Price?
> 
> 73, and thanks,
> Dave (NK7Z)
> https://www.nk7z.net
> ARRL Volunteer Examiner
> ARRL Technical Specialist, RFI
> ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
> 
> On 8/23/21 5:37 PM, VA7KL wrote:
>> Fully operational. Located in Vancouver Canada.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:Elecraft at mailman.qth.net
>> 
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> Message delivered to dave at nk7z.net
>> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 22
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 22:45:15 -0600
> From: James Bennett <w6jhb at me.com>
> To: Elecraft Reflector Reflector <elecraft at mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ground Wire & Coax
> Message-ID: <907EF4D0-2F0C-42ED-9906-880784BB097D at me.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset=utf-8
> 
> Folks - thanks for the input! 
> 
> Jim - Not sure what version I?ve got - it doesn?t say, so perhaps it is first edition of the book. However it does have a few paragraphs on perimeter grounding, on pages 4.22 - 4.24. And yes, I had planned on a series of ground rods driven in and connected to the #4 wire along its path to the Ufer connection point. 
> 
> You mentioned ?at least 1.5 - 2x their length" of the ground rod spacing. What would be the minimum spacing between rods? They are, after all, not the easiest things to ?push? into the ground.
> 
> Luckily we?ve got no Telco line coming into the house, nor CATV - it is all fiber here.
> 
> Jim / K7TXA
> 
>> On Aug 23, 2021, at 9:27 PM, Jim Brown <jim at audiosystemsgroup.com> wrote:
>> 
>> On 8/23/2021 6:42 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft wrote:
>>> Per N.E.C. specs, I need to tie the ground system at the shack entrance to the house utility ground - probably 150? or so from the coax entrance panel to that Ufer spot. 
>> 
>> There's a bit more to it than that. In essence, more grounds are better and you can have as many as you want, but they must ALL be bonded together. That includes power, telco, CATV, shack, etc.
>> 
>> My electrician said that a #4 solid copper wire running from the coax entrance panel to the Ufer point would suffice for keeping the grounds together. Looking at the ARRL book on grounding and bonding, it appears that what I?m going to do is to install a ?perimeter ground.?
>> 
>> Not quite -- it would be a perimeter ground if that #4 (yes, big enough) were connecting driven rods spaced at least 1.5 - 2x their length around the perimeter.
>> 
>> Do you have the first or second edition of the book? Ward and I worked through some of the issues involved with situations like yours for the second edition.
>> 
>> 73, Jim K9YC
>> 
>> 
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:Elecraft at mailman.qth.net
>> 
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> Message delivered to w6jhb at me.com
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 23
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 21:52:28 -0700
> From: Walter Underwood <wunder at wunderwood.org>
> To: Reflector Elecraft <elecraft at mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ground Wire & Coax
> Message-ID: <BC4BD388-45DA-4A57-960E-24BEDFA872CC at wunderwood.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset=utf-8
> 
> Is the second edition published yet? ARRL shows First Edition, Fourth Printing.
> 
> http://www.arrl.org/shop/Grounding-and-Bonding-for-the-Radio-Amateur/
> 
> wunder
> K6WRU
> Walter Underwood
> CM87wj
> http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)
> 
>> On Aug 23, 2021, at 8:27 PM, Jim Brown <jim at audiosystemsgroup.com> wrote:
>> 
>> On 8/23/2021 6:42 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft wrote:
>>> Per N.E.C. specs, I need to tie the ground system at the shack entrance to the house utility ground - probably 150? or so from the coax entrance panel to that Ufer spot. 
>> 
>> There's a bit more to it than that. In essence, more grounds are better and you can have as many as you want, but they must ALL be bonded together. That includes power, telco, CATV, shack, etc.
>> 
>> My electrician said that a #4 solid copper wire running from the coax entrance panel to the Ufer point would suffice for keeping the grounds together. Looking at the ARRL book on grounding and bonding, it appears that what I?m going to do is to install a ?perimeter ground.?
>> 
>> Not quite -- it would be a perimeter ground if that #4 (yes, big enough) were connecting driven rods spaced at least 1.5 - 2x their length around the perimeter.
>> 
>> Do you have the first or second edition of the book? Ward and I worked through some of the issues involved with situations like yours for the second edition.
>> 
>> 73, Jim K9YC
>> 
>> 
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:Elecraft at mailman.qth.net
>> 
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> Message delivered to wunder at wunderwood.org
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 24
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 22:35:15 -0700
> From: Jim Brown <jim at audiosystemsgroup.com>
> To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ground Wire & Coax
> Message-ID:
>    <b9e587ef-3b77-9f19-2e29-5e61b75fcc5f at audiosystemsgroup.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> 
> On 8/23/2021 9:45 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft wrote:
>> Folks - thanks for the input!
>> 
>> Jim - Not sure what version I?ve got - it doesn?t say, so perhaps it is first edition of the book. However it does have a few paragraphs on perimeter grounding, on pages 4.22 - 4.24. And yes, I had planned on a series of ground rods driven in and connected to the #4 wire along its path to the Ufer connection point.
> 
> I don't know if the second edition is out -- we finished over the winter.
>> 
>> You mentioned ?at least 1.5 - 2x their length" of the ground rod spacing. What would be the minimum spacing between rods? They are, after all, not the easiest things to ?push? into the ground.
> 
> That IS the minimum spacing. Most rods sold are 8 ft or so, so I'd 
> choose 16 ft spacing.
>> 
>> Luckily we?ve got no Telco line coming into the house, nor CATV - it is all fiber here.
> 
> I would hate to lose POTS -- we often lose power for long periods, and 
> when that goes, so does Comcast. And we have NO cell coverage, thanks to 
> the "Tin Hat Brigade."  I'm hoping I have enough of a view of the sky in 
> the clearing of our 200+ ft redwoods for StarLink to provide a viable 
> alternative.
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 25
> Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2021 12:16:39 -0700
> From: Phil Kane <k2asp at kanafi.org>
> To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ground Wire & Coax
> Message-ID: <4141b17a-1180-5cc9-3543-24aa72744e2f at kanafi.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> 
> On 8/23/2021 9:45 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft wrote:
> 
>> Luckily we?ve got no Telco line coming into the house, nor CATV - it is all fiber here.
> 
> Even more reason to have it Located.......ditto for your water, gas, and 
> electric services.
> 
> 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
> Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402
> 
> From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
> Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 26
> Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2021 13:33:17 -0700
> From: <marvwheeler at nwlink.com>
> To: <Elecraft at mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: [Elecraft] KX3, PX3, KXPA00 for trade or sale.
> Message-ID: <[email protected]>
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I have a complete KX3 station, as listed above, with side panels, covers,
> cables and heat sink  that is would like to trade or sale and end up with
> another K3S, The station is in excellent cosmetic condition and works at it
> should. Selling price for complete station $2650.00 including shipping to
> your U.S. location. If you are interested in working out a trade contact me.
> 
> 
> 
> Marv
> 
> KG7V
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Post to: Elecraft at mailman.qth.net
> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> You must be a subscriber to post.
> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
> 
> End of Elecraft Digest, Vol 208, Issue 13
> *****************************************


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