[Elecraft] [K2] DXE Clifton Labs Z10000 Buffer Amp

[Jim KO5V]

Yes, me too...


>>Thanks for the tip, Don.  Been preparing coax cables for years the hard (and wrong) way.
>
>Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Oct 10, 2019, at 3:02 PM, Don Wilhelm <donwilh at embarqmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Clark and all,
>> 
>> The secret to stripping the outer insulation from ANY coax (including the RG178) is to first score the outer insulation a bit (not trying to cut all the way to the shield), then bend the cable at the score mark which will stretch the insulation a bit - then a light touch with the blade will cause the insulation to split all the way down to the shield.
>> Rotate the cable to the other side and do the 'bend and touch' thing again.  You should then be able to slide the insulation off the shield.
>> 
>> Separate the shield strands and split them into two groups - twist the strands on one half and cut the rest away.
>> 
>> You can do the same "score, bend and touch" operation to the center conductor if you do not have good wire cutters to strip it.  Do not nick the conductor, or it will break after it is soldered.
>> 
>> The other thing many hams do not realize is that the braid of the shield should NOT be filled with solder (making it stiff).  Solder only  the tip as far in as necessary to make the connection.  If soldered stiff, it will usually break either where it is soldered to the board or connector or at the point where the braid exits the coax.
>> I have replaced the input coax on many KPA100s and KAT2s that were broken because the shield was soldered stiff.