[Elecraft] [K2] DXE Clifton Labs Z10000 Buffer Amp

[Don Wilhelm]

Clark and all,

The secret to stripping the outer insulation from ANY coax (including 
the RG178) is to first score the outer insulation a bit (not trying to 
cut all the way to the shield), then bend the cable at the score mark 
which will stretch the insulation a bit - then a light touch with the 
blade will cause the insulation to split all the way down to the shield.
Rotate the cable to the other side and do the 'bend and touch' thing 
again.  You should then be able to slide the insulation off the shield.

Separate the shield strands and split them into two groups - twist the 
strands on one half and cut the rest away.

You can do the same "score, bend and touch" operation to the center 
conductor if you do not have good wire cutters to strip it.  Do not nick 
the conductor, or it will break after it is soldered.

The other thing many hams do not realize is that the braid of the shield 
should NOT be filled with solder (making it stiff).  Solder only  the 
tip as far in as necessary to make the connection.  If soldered stiff, 
it will usually break either where it is soldered to the board or 
connector or at the point where the braid exits the coax.
I have replaced the input coax on many KPA100s and KAT2s that were 
broken because the shield was soldered stiff.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/10/2019 2:27 PM, Clark Macaulay wrote:
> Helps a lot, Jim.
> 
> Yes...you answered my question in that you have done it.  So, I'll set
> aside a morning where I swear off coffee (steadier hands) and using a new
> razor blade give it a try.  Didn't know the cable in the kit is RG178 which
> is about 30% smaller than RG174.  I don't see anyplace on the board to tack
> on a RG174 cable as the pads for the SMT components are so small.  It's
> actually a beautiful board.
>