[Elecraft] New K1 Kit

[EricJ]

#1 would be true for thru-hole components. SMD components on a board in, 
say, a K3 were ramped up to about 225 deg C (435 deg F) over SEVERAL 
minutes. They're designed to withstand those temps. I don't know what 
the little heat gun I use puts out, but it doesn't burn paper which 
famously burns at Fahrenheit 451.

#2 It happens. When the solder goes molten, the surface tension moves 
parts around a little. Usually, it tends to position the part on the 
pads better than you can with tweezers on clean pads. Sometimes parts 
stand on end. Not a problem reheat it and push it down. Things don't 
always go perfectly on thru-hole either. Don Wilhelm helps people nearly 
every day with problems that turn out to be soldering related on K2's. 
They happen to everyone. Not a big problem.

BTW, notice that the solder paste on the IC is not carefully applied to 
each pad. Instead, the solder is applied ACROSS the pins in two lines. 
When it goes molten, the surface tension positions the parts and draws 
up any solder bridges onto the pads. Doesn't always work, but I've done 
some large ICs that way without solder bridges. When it happens, dab the 
connection with an iron and the bridge disappears. Safe and easy.

I understand not everyone has the eyesight or dexterity for it, and not 
for all sizes of SMDs. I avoid the very small stuff as do most hams who 
use SMD. Amateur radio is about new technical challenges whether 
building or operating. This is a very accessible and useful skill that 
can be acquired with inexpensive tools and a little practice.

Eric KE6US

On 6/6/2019 1:31 PM, Al Lorona wrote:
>   1/ It always seemed to me that this method heats up the components much more than using a simple soldering iron, where you can pause between soldering each pad to allow heat to dissipate.
>
> 2/ Is that a capacitor standing up at about the 1:12 mark? Not good.
>
> Al  W6LX
>
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