[Elecraft] OT: Surgery on female N-connector

[David Olean]

Erik,

Most Type N connectors have a captive center pin that is pressed into a 
teflon dielectric. Some can be removed easier than others. There is a 
knurl on the center pin to hold it in place. I have popped them out on 
occasion and used a metal push pin that is drilled out to surround the 
four fingers and hold them in place. Some connectors are advertised as 
hermetic. Stay away from those. Most imports have easily removed pins.  
It has been many years since I ordered them and I forget the exact 
supplier, but they were built in Taiwan and had a nice brazed flange and 
a gold plated center pin.


Dave


On 11/1/2018 4:08 AM, Erik Basilier wrote:
> My apologies for going far OT here. Any replies direct only please.
> I am trying to fix the broken N connector on a surplus 100W dummy load, RELM
> T44004.
> The female part has lost 2 of its 4 fingers, and needs to be replaced. The
> connector has a standard size square flange with 4 screws. (This is *not*
> the same as the larger square flange of the interchangeable Bird
> connectors). On the back is a custom part that connects to the load
> resistor. It seems to be crimped to the female N part. My hope is that I
> will be able to separate these parts and attach the custom part to a new
> N-female part. The combo slides out easily from the teflon insulator. The
> first task is to obtain a new N-female part, preferably gold-plated. Taking
> a hacksaw to a barrel female-female, or elbow male-female seems like a lot
> of work. Even getting the center connector out of a chassis mount N female
> might take some work, but seems easier. My junk box is heavy with N
> connectors, but to my surprise I couldn't find a single chassis mount N
> female. My question to the group: Has anyone attempted to get the center
> part out from a female N connector? Was a particular brand of N connector
> especially easy to work on?
> Thanks in advance for any tips.
> 73,
> Erik K7TV
>
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