[Elecraft] Mobile from 117 VAC

[Charlie T]

Try holding the ALT key while typing 253 to get the exponent as in "IR²"
Similarly, ALT 0185, then 0186 for "XX¹º".

I'm not sure this works with all systems, or, if it even translates correctly, but in my DELL running Outlook, I have access to a whole bunch of handy items by holding down the ALT key while typing a 3 or 4 digit number. 
For example:  λ, ¢, £, ¥,  π, Σ, Ω, ü,¼, ½, Ø,Δ, ÷, √. 

73, Charlie k3ICH



-----Original Message-----
From: elecraft-bounces at mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Rick WA6NHC
Sent: Monday, October 09, 2017 12:00 PM
To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Mobile from 117 VAC

Overall, not a great plan.

Using an inverter, you will introduce RF noise, generate heat and poor regulation, unless you get a quality inverter (not cheap).  It's inefficient too and space wasteful.

If you use a power port (no longer called cigarette plugs), you will again introduce noise for your radio because they seldom have decent chassis bonding.  They are also low amperage capable and you can exceed that (check the owner manual or the fuse block), even if momentarily. Often they are also part of the vehicle systems array, so you'll get noises and generate issues to/from the vehicle electronics, some of which are rather spendy to repair.

In the long run, it's best (and least expense) to simply run the (fused at both ends, both wires) power cable to a known, chassis bonded source.  Power is NOT a place to cheap out.  If you're QRP, it's simple, the wires aren't huge, check your IR^2 losses over the run (make sure there is no voltage drop AT the radio).

Hint:  Make sure EVERYTHING, power at the source, power at the radio, the radio itself AND the antenna are properly RF bonded (not DC) to the vehicle and you'll have less issues, which translates into more fun.

Rick NHC