[Elecraft] OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

[Clay Autery]

I would like to echo the recommendation to NOT use the existing vehicle
wiring.... for a number of reasons.  While you can likely "get away with
it" on a 10W rig (if you don't mind playing Russian Roulette with the
quality of the grounds, noise makers on/near the circuit, et al.), it is
my considered opinion that MOST amateur radio installs will benefit
GREATLY from an upgraded electrical system, and dedicated circuit(s).

But I didn't pay some stereo outfit to do it...

I did it myself...  of course, I was ALSO planning for a potentially
large draw from a stereo and external emergency supplemental lighting
and power ports.
NOTE: I drive an '04 F150 Heritage, but the principles are the same
regardless of vehicle.

I put the largest battery that would fit into the existing tray.  I
upgraded to a 275+ Amp alternator (50% overhead).  I REPLACED the
existing MAIN power harness wiring from the battery to starter relay, to
solenoid, to starter, to alternator, to ALL station 1 and 2 grounds
(engine bay and cab).  I installed massive terminals on the battery with
through bolts allowing the attachment of a large number of terminals.  I
used top quality welding wire and upped the wire size NO LESS than 2
sizes... mostly, I made them as large as I could route and fit.  I used
marine grade ring terminals and a hammer set tool (in my vice) to set
the terminals.  Each terminal was back-soldered to seal up the strands,
and then dual layer heat-shrink with sealing adhesive.  ALL new wires
(neoprene insulation) are enclosed in wire loom anywhere they can get
close to engine heat.

Finally, I ran massive 00 (I think... maybe larger?) POS and NEG runs
into the cab via the firewall (no under the truck runs!!!) to
distribution terminals under the driver's seat.  From there, I can
connect up pretty much whatever I want.
BOTH home runs are fused with an appropriately rated fast blow fuse... 
If it touches the limit, it will let go at the fuse before jeopardizing
any of the equipment.

This is amateur radio...  we are supposed to be learning/using new
skills....  Here's your chance to learn something new.  Get the service
and wiring manuals for your chosen auto... THAT should be standard for
EVERY vehicle.  You cannot possibly properly maintain a vehicle without
the service manuals.  <smile>

OK...  so that's a general look at how I did it... bulletproof and
future-"proof".  All I have to do to make a "proper" place for an HF
radio now is finish bonding the rest of the truck chassis together with
the engine bay, cab, and front frame.  Without a dedicated LARGE
conductor "ground" (return) system, you cannot guarantee the same
"ground" potential from all points in the big metal hunk.

73,

______________________
Clay Autery, KY5G

On 6/27/2017 12:46 AM, Phil Hystad wrote:
> Gene,
>
> Well, my Silverado is 2004, not 2017, but HD2500 Crew Cab, which is a little bigger than a 1500.
>
> I didn’t bother with trying to use existing wiring, rather I just took my truck down to the local Car Toys dealership and told them what I wanted and they did it.  They are experts at wiring vehicles for huge amp draws from the battery due to the likes of people wanting to have some huge audio amp pushing several hundred watts of power into the speaker systems they also added to a car.
>
> So, I had the wiring done up to handle 80 amps because at the time this was being done I was also contemplating a 500 watt amplifier (the SGC Cube).  They ran the positive and negative lines, which were about almost 1/3 inch in diameter under the frame to the crew cab (rear) area where the brought the cables up thru the floor where they placed a high-current distribution box where I could hook up my own wiring to then rig (or rigs).
>
> I also had them create a nice pass-thru coaxial adapter for hooking up my antenna coax which ran under the frame to the back corner panel by the stake hole and up to where my Hi-Q antenna was located.  Everything waterproof of course.  And, I had them add about 6 placed ground straps between different parts of the truck frame and cab to ensure that everything was well grounded.
>
> About $400 for the entire job or about the cost for dinner for two at the Herb Farm Restaurant in Woodinville, Washington.
>
> There is one thing I would look into and that is the RFI you would cause to the electronics in the truck.  With a 100-watt output on my rig I could cause some of the engine check lights to flash on.  Nothing bad ever happened but the lights would often stay on until the engine was shutdown and when started again everything was fine.  This only happened on the 40 meter band though.  Must have been just the right coupling at those frequencies.
>
> The 2017 vehicles have a lot more electronics and computers one them then the ones back in 2004 and you are likely to have some problems (possibly) and even with 100 watts or maybe even less.  A K2 at 10 watts is probably not a problem though.
>
> 73, phil, K7PEH