[Elecraft] Sub Receiver & KBPF3

[Bill Frantz]

Ian has a lot of good advice below.

I have big hands -- I always look for the XL gloves -- and I 
have removed the sub receiver in my K3 several times. In 
fairness, I also knit socks using small needles, so I get 
practice with small tools.

The only problems I had were getting the TMP connectors 
connected. I had one the looked OK, but wasn't. Elecraft support 
told me how to trace the signal through the sub and it became obvious.

There is a zen to working on physical things, whether it is cars 
or K3s. Metal fasteners will tell you when you are over torquing 
them as you stretch the metal. It will be elastic before it 
takes on a permanent set or breaks and you can feel the 
elasticity. You won't be able to feel the elasticity with an 
electric screwdriver.

73 Bill AE6JV

On 4/20/17 at 1:16 AM, gm3sek at ifwtech.co.uk (Ian White) wrote:

>Grant is so right: practice counts for a lot. Procrastinating only
>allows you to forget everything you learned the last time.
>
>Along with training yourself, you are also 'training' the connector pins
>into the correct locations for easier insertion the next time around.
>The same applies to the bent-metal covers of the KRX3, which are
>difficult to assemble the first time, but eventually become trained to
>fit each other.
>
>TL;DR version: As you get better, the job itself becomes easier as well.
>So do it!
>
>A few tips when replacing the KRX3:
>
>0. Rule Zero of Elecraft assembly: All Parts Fit Exactly. If that
>doesn't seem to be true, you don't have the parts aligned correctly yet.
>
>1. Install the TMP connectors *before* attempting to mate the multi-pin
>connectors. Use hemostats to handle the TMP connectors. 6in hemostats
>(aka artery forceps) are very cheap on eBay. Use the locking handles to
>grip the connector body at the correct angle for insertion, and feel for
>the center pin. Be patient. When the center pin locates correctly, the
>connector body will locate too. Now unlock the hemostat handles and use
>the tips of the jaws to push the whole connector firmly into place. You
>should distinctly feel the connector move inward.
>Again, this is all about practice. When you have learned what a
>correctly seated TMP connector looks and *feels* like, you won't forget.
>
>Also avoid removing or disturbing TMP connectors unnecessarily. A
>surprising amount of work can be done while leaving them in place - but
>always check them again after reassembly.
>2. The multi-pin connector at the front right of the KRX3 aligns
>*exactly* with the edges of the vertical adapter board. Memorize what
>this should look like when correctly assembled. Ease this connector into
>place first, but don't screw anything down yet.
>
>3. The multi-pin connector at the rear left of the KRX3 is more
>difficult to align. It is more difficult to see from above, and also its
>adapter board can move away from the vertical. To see what you're doing,
>remove the left side panel (see tip 5) and use a screwdriver to nudge
>the adapter board into the correct position. Then the KRX3 will drop
>easily into place. Look in from the left-hand side to check that *all*
>of the pins are *correctly* mated.
>
>4. Remember Rule Zero. If the KRX3 does not drop easily into place with
>all connectors correctly mated, or if the long retaining screws passing
>through the KRX3 don't immediately find the threaded pillars below...
>then something is wrong. Go back.
>
>5. Removing the side, top and bottom covers from a K3(S) is easy. If it
>makes some other part of the job more easy to do, then don't hesitate.
>Contrary to doctrine, you can use an electric screwdriver to remove
>cover panels without damage - but on two conditions: (a) that you use
>the correct Phillips screwdriver bit; and (b) you understand that an
>"electric screwdriver" is a small, low-power tool that nestles in the
>hand - not a drill-driver with a half-inch chuck!
>But always go back to the manual screwdriver when inserting and
>tightening screws. An electric screwdriver is *not* suitable for
>tightening these small screws because there is a great risk of
>over-tightening and causing damage. Over-tightened screws will also be
>much more difficult to remove the next time. (Even if you own an
>instrument-grade electric screwdriver with a clutch that is correctly
>adjusted for these particular screws, you will still make mistakes.)
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