[Elecraft] Remote KAT500

[Clay Autery]

1.  The AUX cable...  twisted pair cable or better, shielded twisted
pair cable, would be nice to use, but typically only has 4-pair (8
conductors), and the KAT-500 DB-15 pinout shows straight through wiring
of TEN (10) conductors (or 9 if you don't use have to have the ALC). 
You COULD get it down to 8 IF you only used one ground conductor and
then di-plexed it on each end.   I would NOT do this without a CLEAR
understanding why there are 2 grounds there to begin with.  CAT-5 when
used with Ethernet has a max run spec of 100 meters (I've run them
longer) and CAT-6 is the same EXCEPT it derates to 55 meters for 10 gig
data rate.  So, the cable isn't an issue... probably.  It has to do with
what signal types and levels are put on the interface, and what the
receiving end (both the ATU and the PA) need to SEE.

Definitely doable, IMHO.  But I'd need more info as to the interface
specifications to offer you a "will work" solution vs. a "should work"
solution.

Without ANY additional info, I would TRY it this way:

Use TWO (2) runs of CAT-6 to replace the AUX cable.  I'd ONLY put 4
signal wires on each cable.  I'd pair EACH signal with a ground... IAW,
use one conductor for the signal and its pair-mate as a ground.

YMMV, and I am not responsible if you let the smoke out of something.  ;-)

3. Cable entry to box:  Personally, I would NOT put cable junctions
external to the box... especially a 259 pair (I don't use 259 connectors
EVER outside).  There are cable "glands" made for various sizes of
cable.  Use the appropriate size for each cable.  ONE cable per gland. 
They are water-proof (resistant actually) based on their rating.  Put
the glands on the bottom preferably, side NOT facing prevailing storm
direction next, but never on top.  When you install the gland housing on
the box, seal it properly as extra insurance.  Using glands will ALSO
avoid the additional insertion loss and potential point of failure of
adding an additional connector, jumper wire, and moisture ingress on the
feedline(s), etc.

Feel free to email me direct...

73,

______________________
Clay Autery

On 1/21/2016 1:17 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
>
> 1.  It appears that the "AUX cable" can be dispensed with using
> instead the KEY OUT line from the amplifier.  Before I give up on the
> "AUX cable," does anyone know how long a cable I could have?  My run
> will be about 120' [~37 m].  I think the signals in that cable are TTL
> levels but I don't know how CAT5/CAT6 twisted pair cables might work
> over that distance.
>
> 2.  With the KAT500 in its box at the antenna base, I'm trying to
> figure out how I would "train" the autotuner.  Before our move, I set
> my K3 to the center of each "bin" on each band, and tapped TUNE.  I
> did this for each of the three antennas I had on the appropriate
> bands.  It took awhile.  Thereafter, I ran the KAT500 in MAN mode and
> it recalled the right settings as I tuned in receive.  The "AUX cable"
> was connected. That method isn't going to work well with a remote KAT500.
>
> 3.  How do I get the cables into the weatherproof box?  Should I mount
> connectors [doesn't seem very good to me ... PL-259 exposed to the
> weather], or are there weatherproof entrance fittings.  One of the
> cables will be 120 VAC, probably a heavy extension cord [for 12V
> supply and the fixture to light the flag at night.
>
> As has been pointed out, the not-so-expensive-box will be housing a
> fairly-expensive-KAT500.