[Elecraft] Pigtails on ANT1 and ANT2 UHF Bulkhead Connectors

[Clay Autery]

Actually, for this application, I will be using Times Microwave
TC-series N-Connectors which are crimp/ solder for the shield/contact.

The pin is soldered to the center conductor with a 0.050" standoff from
the PE insulation.  The shield is crimped to the connector shell with a
0.255" hex crimp die against the shell body leaving a slight uncrimped
ring at the cable end for strain relief.  Finally, the supplied or
supplemental adhesive/sealant lined shrink tube is installed over the
appropriate area of the crimp to offer weather resistance.

The same method is used to terminate the TC-series BNC connectors.  It
is quite and easy process with the proper strip, de-bur, and crimp
frame/dies, and provides a very consistent termination.

I have used the EZ-series connectors in the past especially for static
wireless point-to-point antenna feed lines using LMR-400 and larger
cable.  The de-burred center conductor of a properly stripped end
"clicks" into the connector and crimped as above.
I have feed lines on PTP installs that have been in place for 10 years
using these connectors with ZERO problems.

Additionally, there is a third method that some cable makers use where
they use a proper die to crimp the center pin on FIRST, and then solder
the pin as a secondary connection.  This is generally over-kill, but I
have used this method in the past for terminations that MIGHT see some
rougher handling.

It all depends on the specific connector design, manufacturer, cable
type, installation considerations, et al.

Use the right connector and tools with the right cable stock, combined
with patience and skill.

I DO use crimp only connectors for 75-Ohm audio/broadcast cables (Canare
exclusively).  Almost exclusively indoors on apps where cable will not
be disturbed a lot.  Proper tools/dies and cable center conductor prep
as to straightness, deburring, cleaning insulator of stray shield bits,
center conductor length correct for crimp well and insulator contact, et
al. insure proper signal integrity and low/no leakage.

ALL connectors are vulnerable to mis-handling, weathering effects, etc. 
And you are correct, ALL exterior connectors should be adequately
protected.  Personally, I use self-fusing tape or liquid products over
the entire connection, and then a quality UV resistant electrical tape
over that.  The electrical tape is then secured at the open end with a
UV resistant cable tie to guard against tape release.  The principle
being to restore the connection area to as close to an unbroken cable
outer jacket as possible.

Further, I generally use a cable stock like the Times -DB series which
is impregnated with a moisture excluding substance anywhere that is
tough to work on, long runs, etc... in addition to direct burial of
sub-surface conduit.

Bottom Line:  It may be over-engineering, but I've been making cables
for 25+ years; they work well and setting aside catastrophic situations;
they've never failed me.

But the original question remains:  "What are the pins on the ANT1 and
ANT2 lead ends that plug into the PCBs called?"

Have a great day!

______________________
Clay Autery, KG5LKV
(318) 518-1389

On 2/17/2016 11:31 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
> On Wed,2/17/2016 6:21 AM, Clay Autery wrote:
>> Please cite your authority for the "superiority" of "UHF Connectors"
>> to quality N-Connectors.
>
> N-connectors have a well known problem with migration of the center
> conductor.
>
> Many, including me, consider a soldered connector superior to crimps.
> I note that you use crimps.
>
> Many consider a UHF connector more robust.
>
> Constant impedance simply doesn't matter below high VHF.
>
> As to weatherproofing, I would never consider ANY connector
> waterproof, and carefully seal all outdoor connectors.
>
> I do use some N-connectors in my station, mostly to terminate some
> runs of 7/8-in and 1/2-in hard line, most of which is used for long
> runs to HF antennas.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
>
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