[Elecraft] K2/100 and KAT2

[Dauer, Edward]

I have the same at present, though with self-adhesive Velcro (the GA 
pilot’s best friend.)  Horizontal trips on each side of the K2 and the 
KAT100-1, and two short vertical strips mated to each side to hold the two 
boxes together.

Knowing that the KAT2 mounts in the base K2 cover makes it all make sense; 
I was unable to access the KAT2 manual to see that last night.

Another possibility for a quick conversion to QRPis to move both the 
KAT100 and the KPA100 to an EC-2 enclosure and install the KAT2 in the 
base K2.  I have seen references in the archives to the possibility of 
doing that conversion, but they leave a number of questions open.  Once 
the KPA100 is installed in the K2, is it possible to move it over to an 
EC-2 with the KAT100?  If so, is there a procedure published somewhere?

Ted, KN1CBR






On 4/16/16, 8:40 AM, "Kurt Cramer" <vwracer23 at gmail.com> wrote:

>You guys are making this too hard. The 20 watt tunner mounts in the QRP 
>K2 top. When you take off the QRP top off to put on the 100 watt amp the 
>QRP tunner has gone away. I have both tunners and it is no problem going 
>back and forth. The 100 watt runner has places for the K2’s feet to fit 
>into on it’s top. So the K2 and tunner stay togeather. But the K2 will 
>lift off. I made some side plates out of aluminum that go under both the 
>K2’s sides and the tunner’s sides. Now if I pick-up the K2 the tunner 
>comes with it. 
>
>Kurt/W7QHD
>> On Apr 15, 2016, at 8:36 PM, Brian Denley <b.denley at comcast.net> wrote:
>> 
>> Ted:
>> You might look into building the K2/100 in the 'Twins' configuration.  
>>To switch from 100 watts to qrp just requires disconnection the power 
>>amp box.  This configuration allows the KAT2 to be used along with the 
>>high power tuner.  I built mine that way and it works very well.
>> 
>> Brian 
>> KB1VBF
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>>> On Apr 15, 2016, at 10:56 PM, Dauer, Edward <edauer at law.du.edu> wrote:
>>> 
>>> A question for those who have the K2/100 ---
>>> 
>>> I finished building and am now becoming familiar with operating the 
>>>K2/100 and the KAT100-1.  It’s a great combination; but for portable 
>>>work it’s heavy and there are two boxes.  At the time I bought it I did 
>>>not purchase the KAT2 – the internal low power tuner.  My questions 
>>>have to do with having both the KAT2 and the 100W amp. Installed at the 
>>>same time.  I tried investigating this in the manuals but for some 
>>>reason the link to the online KAT2 manual isn’t working tonight.
>>> 
>>> Two questions.  First, is there a physical space problem if a K2 has 
>>>the 100W option, and the KNB2, and the APF/Clock option ,and the KAT2, 
>>>or can the KAT2 stay on board even when the 100W amp is in place?  
>>>Second, does the system switch automatically from the KAT2 to the 
>>>outboard KAT100-1 when the amp is in (or when the power exceeds the 
>>>KAT2’s limit?)  What I mean to be asking is whether having the KAT2 
>>>inside will complicate the process of removing the amp to go “barefoot” 
>>>with the base K2.  As it stands now it’s six screws twice, five plugs, 
>>>and no configuration changes.  Does having a KAT2 on board add anything 
>>>to that?
>>> 
>>> Thanks in advance . . .
>>> 
>>> Ted, KN1CBR
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>