[Elecraft] Request Advice re K2 Build

[Vic Rosenthal]

But hold the capacitor by the lead, not by its body, when you do this. You don't want to accidentally apply twisting force between the lead and the capacitor.
I learned this the hard way when I built my K2 and I still remember it!

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO 

> On 16 Oct 2015, at 1:50 AM, Don Wilhelm <w3fpr at embarqmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Ted,
> 
> Use your long nose pliers to "de-kink" the leads before inserting into the board.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 10/15/2015 6:42 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:
>> If you¹ll forgive what to the experienced will be a silly question . . .
>> 
>> Building a K2.  Some of the capacitors (e.g. the 0.047) have leads that
>> have a ³kink² in each side, about 2 mm from the cap itself.  (The lead
>> spacing is correct above the kinks and correct again below them.)  If
>> inserted gently into the PCB the component stops at the kink.  But that
>> leaves the leads too long, I think, contrary to the principle that short
>> leads avoid stray couplings.  So, two other possibilities.  One is to
>> ³dekink² the legs with needle-nose pliers - straightening them out,
>> allowing the body of the cap to sit on the PCB surface.  The other is to
>> pull the leads through the PCB until the kinks snap through and come out
>> the other side.  That sounds neater, but it seems as if it¹s putting
>> stress on the capacitor itself.  What¹s the best way to do this?  And why
>> are those kinks there in the first place?
> 
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft at mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to k2vco.vic at gmail.com