[Elecraft] Proper installation of PL 259's

[Reginald J Mackey SR]

I got sick just looking at one of my pl259's...overload

Reggie k6xr


On Nov 13, 2013, at 05:46 AM, WM3M <wm3m at live.com> wrote:

Yes,
Stupid me, I signed up for wrong email list, I thought this was an Elecraft
email list?
Not a list for cables, connectors, how to solder......
Emory WM3M

-----Original Message----- 
From: Dr. William J. Schmidt, II
Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2013 10:39 PM
To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] FW: Proper installation of PL 259's

So far I've counted 96 posts on soldering connectors onto coax. Really?


Dr. William J. Schmidt - K9HZ / J68HZ/ 8P6HK/ ZF2HZ

Owner - Operator
Big Signal Ranch
Staunton, Illinois

email: bill at wjschmidt.com

-----Original Message-----
From: elecraft-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Brown
Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2013 3:51 PM
To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Proper installation of PL 259's

On 11/12/2013 8:42 AM, kd7gc wrote:
They are very expensive, some in excess of $100 each, but they have very
low loss, and they are sealed well against WX. When I order baluns or
switches, I always specify that they must be made with 7/16 DINs, and I have
never been disappointed with their performance.

I'm trying to understand, Alan, so could you please. define
"performance," and please tell us in what application, at what
frequency, and how you actually KNOW their performance.

Unless you're using them in critical small signal applications at UHF,
I'd call that a very poor allocation of financial resources. I can
think of many better ways to spend $100. The loss through a quality
PL259 or N connector is negligible in most real world applications, and
there are simple and effective methods of waterproofing them.

BTW -- the nicest male N connectors I've found for RG8/213-sized cable
are made by Andros Engineering, a machine shop owned by a ham. They're
a 2-piece connector, with both center and shield rigidly assembled to
the same part to which you solder both center and shield, then screw the
outer shell onto it. Very easy to do, and zero possibility of shield
migration.

73, Jim K9YC
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