[Elecraft] OT: Installing PL-259's

[Vic K2VCO]

Well, K3LR does a lot better in contests than I do, but I wouldn't do it this way. I would 
tin the braid and cut it with a tubing cutter, then solder through the holes like K0PP 
suggested. I have never had a problem with one done like this.


On 11/11/2013 10:23 PM, Frank Precissi wrote:
> Glad this topic came up, because im about to redo all my pre-made cables
> and its one of those topics that people like me are afraid to ask because
> they are sorta newbie-ish (cue the "You should have learned this before you
> got your ticket" grumps).
>
> What is your opinion of this method:
>
> http://www.k3lr.com/engineering/pl259/
>
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 9:45 PM, Vic K2VCO <k2vco.vic at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I too use a 100W iron. In my opinion the heat capacity of a large tip is
>> more important than the wattage. I prefer irons to guns for this job.
>>
>>
>> On 11/11/2013 8:35 PM, ac5p at sbcglobal.net wrote:
>>
>>> What is "U-shaped area in the connector body"?   I see replies with guys
>>> using 200-300W irons!
>>> Not seen that high of wattage with tip small enough to fit into slot of
>>> body with holes in it?
>>> My 100 watt (1/4" tapered flat tip) iron seems to work well there.   We
>>> had a demo at ham club meeting a couple of years
>>> ago.  Guy brought a micro-ohm meter (Kelvin bridge) and  compared
>>> resistance of soldered vs. crimped UHF connectors.
>>> He used 100W iron like mine.  Guess which type  had the lower resistance?
>>> 73, Mike
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ________________________________
>>>    From: Ken G Kopp <kengkopp at gmail.com>
>>> To: "elecraft at mailman.qth.net" <elecraft at mailman.qth.net>
>>> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2013 9:25 PM
>>> Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Installing PL-259's
>>>
>>>
>>> I've given hundreds of talks over the years on this subject as
>>> part of an over-all talk on wire antennas....
>>>
>>> Here's suggestions ...
>>>
>>> Use --only-- silver-plated connectors with silver-plated shells.
>>>
>>> Tin the braid and then treat it as if it was a piece of tubing and
>>> cut it to length with a small tubing cutter.  Leave about a 1/16"
>>> portion of the center dielectric protruding from the braid when
>>> the dielectric is removed from the center conductor. There's
>>> a recess in the center pin's insulation to accept this protrusion.
>>>
>>> Use a taper reamer to enlarge the four solder holes in the body
>>> of the connector as much as possible.  The holes will then be
>>> the diameter of the U-shaped area in the connector body, making
>>> soldering iron contact with the previously tinned braid much easier.
>>>
>>> This is a good place to remember to put the shell of the connector
>>> on the coax ... in the correct direction. (;-)
>>>
>>> The threads inside the connector are for screwing the connector
>>> onto the outer jacket of the cable and ---not--- for screwing reducers
>>> for RG-58 or RG-59 into the connector.  That's an incidental came-
>>> later feature.  Note that the threads inside the connector are "square"
>>> to prevent cutting into the outer jacket of the cable.  Hint:  A tiny
>>> touch
>>> of silicone grease on the outside of the jacket will help ... the ribbed
>>> front portion of the connector is for finger gripping ... or perhaps a
>>> small assist with slip-joint pliers.
>>>
>>> There is a correct way to handle RG-58 and RG-59 reducers and
>>> solder them correctly.
>>>
>>> 73!
>>>
>>> Ken Kopp - K0PP
>>> kengkopp at gmail.com
>>>
>>
>> --
>> Vic, K2VCO
>> Fresno CA
>> http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
>>
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>
>
>

-- 
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/