[Elecraft] OT: Installing PL-259's
Vic K2VCO
k2vco.vic at gmail.com
Tue Nov 12 00:45:36 EST 2013
I too use a 100W iron. In my opinion the heat capacity of a large tip is more important
than the wattage. I prefer irons to guns for this job.
On 11/11/2013 8:35 PM, ac5p at sbcglobal.net wrote:
> What is "U-shaped area in the connector body"? I see replies with guys using 200-300W irons!
> Not seen that high of wattage with tip small enough to fit into slot of body with holes in it?
> My 100 watt (1/4" tapered flat tip) iron seems to work well there. We had a demo at ham club meeting a couple of years
> ago. Guy brought a micro-ohm meter (Kelvin bridge) and compared resistance of soldered vs. crimped UHF connectors.
> He used 100W iron like mine. Guess which type had the lower resistance?
> 73, Mike
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Ken G Kopp <kengkopp at gmail.com>
> To: "elecraft at mailman.qth.net" <elecraft at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2013 9:25 PM
> Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Installing PL-259's
>
>
> I've given hundreds of talks over the years on this subject as
> part of an over-all talk on wire antennas....
>
> Here's suggestions ...
>
> Use --only-- silver-plated connectors with silver-plated shells.
>
> Tin the braid and then treat it as if it was a piece of tubing and
> cut it to length with a small tubing cutter. Leave about a 1/16"
> portion of the center dielectric protruding from the braid when
> the dielectric is removed from the center conductor. There's
> a recess in the center pin's insulation to accept this protrusion.
>
> Use a taper reamer to enlarge the four solder holes in the body
> of the connector as much as possible. The holes will then be
> the diameter of the U-shaped area in the connector body, making
> soldering iron contact with the previously tinned braid much easier.
>
> This is a good place to remember to put the shell of the connector
> on the coax ... in the correct direction. (;-)
>
> The threads inside the connector are for screwing the connector
> onto the outer jacket of the cable and ---not--- for screwing reducers
> for RG-58 or RG-59 into the connector. That's an incidental came-
> later feature. Note that the threads inside the connector are "square"
> to prevent cutting into the outer jacket of the cable. Hint: A tiny touch
> of silicone grease on the outside of the jacket will help ... the ribbed
> front portion of the connector is for finger gripping ... or perhaps a
> small assist with slip-joint pliers.
>
> There is a correct way to handle RG-58 and RG-59 reducers and
> solder them correctly.
>
> 73!
>
> Ken Kopp - K0PP
> kengkopp at gmail.com
--
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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