[Elecraft] CW power output and remote tuners

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

1) A good ground is only important when the length is significantly less than 1/2 wavelength.  Otherwise the impedance at the feed point will be relatively high, meaning a ground is needed only to keep the rig from floating to a problematic RF potential as I explained in my first post. 

2) You want adequate distance between you and the radiator to comply with the FCC RF exposure guidelines. You need spacing at the higher frequencies. There are a variety of guidelines for that, but I always use 2 meters at 30 MHz. It's less on the lower frequency bands. 

73 Ron AC7AC

-----Original Message-----
From: elecraft-bounces at mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mini Builder
Sent: Friday, December 20, 2013 7:22 PM
To: Elecraft at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW power output and remote tuners

Thanks, guys.
 
My reasoning for thinking that I need a remote tuner is that 1. It’s recommended in about every reference I've seen, and B. What’s the alternative? I assume it means going straight to coax (probably through a
balun) at the feed point, and putting up with whatever mismatch there is, correct? Anyone know how much of a mismatch the K3 can handle? I know it's around 10:1 SWR, but what about impedance?

Yes, I know about the importance of a good ground on an inverted-L, that's definitely on the list.



On Friday, December 20, 2013 7:06 PM, Ariel Jacala <ny4g at hotmail.com> wrote:
  
Hello Mini Builder

Welcome back.  The K3 internal tuner is the best choice.  I have used tuners of every stripe and Elecraft internal tuners have a very wide tuning range and will match everything that my other tuners won't.  Why do you need a remote tuner?  If you only have one antenna - you need a multiband antenna that is a wire.  An inverted L will need a lot of radials to be efficient and is good for the low bands.   Various wire antennas which do not need radials will do you better for 40-10m.  A K3 tuner will tune an inverted L provided you cut it right.  It will also tune wires of every stripe.

Ariel NY4G

Sent from my iPad


> On Dec 20, 2013, at 9:44 PM, "Mini Builder" <kiminicooper1 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> Background:
> I got into ham radio back in the 1970s, getting my license at age 12, 
> then life moved on and my license expired. Recently, going through my 
> dad’s stuff after he passed away, I found his license, which brought 
> back many fond memories, so I decided to get back into it.
>  
> Now:
> I just passed the Technician and General test (no call sign
> yet) and have been looking at the state of the art - HOLY SMOKES have 
> things changed! Anyhow, after a lot of research, I’ve decided to get a 
> K3, but before that, I need an antenna. The K3 (with amp) outputs 
> 100W. I’m pretty sure that I’m going with an inverted-L antenna, which 
> requires a remote antenna tuner at its base. One promising remote 
> tuner is the SG-230, but it can only handle “80 watts continuous.” My 
> question: In CW mode, how much power does the K3 output? (assuming 
> worst-case key down 100%).
>  
> If the answer is “100W”, what remote tuner are you guys using with 
> inverted-Lsand your K3s? Yes, I know that the K3 can have a built-in 
> tuner, but I don’t think it can work with an inverted-L.
>  
> Kurt – currently call-sign-less, but who was once WB6DSW.
> 
> (I understand about keeping posts short, but this is my intro post. 
> Follow-ons will be shorter :) 
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