[Elecraft] K-1 4-bander suggestions?

[Mike Morrow]

Jim wrote:

> I was out of Ham Radio since the late 1960's getting my license
> back as an extra class guy one of the last to get the extra when
> you still had to pass with the 20 wpm test about 10-15 years ago,
> although frankly I would have made the test alot more difficult
> as I can remember sitting before the FCC examiner when I was 14
> years old in 1966 shaking in my boots taking the novice test...

Welcome to the Elecraft list, Jim.

I didn't realize that Novice exams were ever given at an FCC office,
nor Technician exams either, unless the examiner gave a person credit
for 5 wpm after a 13 wpm test failure, as sometimes occurred (as
it did for me in 1969).

> I just ordered a K1-4 bander that should be here by the end of this
> week. My question is this. Those of you in the know on this group,
> can you please give me your input as to what additional items that
> I might want to order from Elecraft for this radio?

I have found the following very useful, in order of importance:

1.  Optional LCD backlight - Don't even think of building a K1 without
this option!!  This is an extremely useful feature that is dirt simple
to install as part of the **initial** build of the K1 front panel board,
but a real pain in the butt to back fit afterwards.  This is truly an
important option. (K1BKLTKT LCD Mod Kit)

2.  Auto antenna tuner - It has 10 relays that switch its four inductors
and five capacitors to produce an inductance range from 0 to 4.9 uH and
a capacitance range from 0 to 300 pF in 2^10 (1024) various combinations,
of which 1020 are unique.  The tuning is a series inductor, with capacitance
on either the transmitter side or the antenna side. (KAT1)

3.  Noise Blanker - It does a good job on certain types of noise on its
minimal setting (HIGH threshold), but can affect dynamic range significantly
on the maximum (LOW threshold) setting. (KNB1)

I did not find the internal battery option to be useful...no way to charge,
a potential source of corrosion if leakage occurs, only eight AA-cells
utilized.  Also, the standard speaker sounds much better than the micro
speaker used with the internal battery kit. (KBT1)

I find the tilt stand to be way over-engineered when all I need is something
that props up the front of the K1.  (KTS1)

I would recommend choosing 40, 30, 20, and 15 meters for your KFL1-4 filter
board.  The 17m band is nice, but it does not compare with the usefulness of
15m.  That's one of the finest QRP bands as Solar Cycle 24 progresses.

I also have found the 150 kHz VFO span option (you'll actually get about
170 kHz) to be very manageable, at close to 17 kHz per turn of the VFO knob.
But some home-made felt washers between the front panel and the back of the
VFO knob can prevent disturbing the dial as you remove your fingers from
the dial.  The 10-turn potentiometer has almost no resistance to rotation
and is easily disturbed.

I also believe that four small squares of foam tape should be stuck to the
four corners of the front panel board, on the side with the MPU socket.  This
will prevent (1) Audible rattle/vibration at some audio frequencies when the
internal speaker is in use, and (2) Visible front panel push button recession
when one is depressed, due to play between the corners of the front panel PCB
and the support blocks behind them.

The K1 is a mature product that appeared in 2000.  I built S/N 175 and it has
always been my favorite QRP rig.  I know of very little else, such as any
electrical mods, which should be added.

> I am remembering the Heathkits of the 1960's which made me nostalgic for a
> CW only radio.

I love listening to 15m when it is open, at 0400, hearing VK, JA, and ZL stations
here in Alabama on 15 feet of hookup wire indoors.  It's a great portable or
backpack rig too.

I think you'll like it!

73,
Mike / KK5F