[Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --

[Fred Townsend]

Don, I worked in a large factory where we had a large rework department and
I saw a lot of alternative methods for removing connectors and as you said
each to his own. I second, your caution to never use a pin vise and drill.
The wall thickness is usually less than 0.001". The odds on getting a
correctly sized drill are not good.

I once had to change a lot of connectors in the field without the assistance
of a rework department. Even after removing the pins I still had a lot of
solder in the holes. Because the replacement pins were large the holes had
to be cleaned out very well. I mounted the board on edge in a Panavise. Then
using a 800 degree small conical tip iron pushed straight into the hole on
one side for about 5 seconds, I chased the hole from the other side with a
short burst of canned air. Cauntion1: Be sure to wear eye protection because
the solder can splatter.  If it's done right the iron will collect the
excess solder. 
Caution2: Don't use an overly large or small iron and get on and get off the
hole quickly. Too much heat will cook the hole out of the board.

It's very fast and the hole cleans up well.  

73,
Fred, AE6QL

-----Original Message-----
From: elecraft-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2011 8:49 AM
To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --

John,

Each to his own choices, but I would NEVER use a drill of any sort in a
thru-plated hole  Even if the trace is only on one side (particularly on the
component side), I would not take the chance.  Consider the situation where
the PC trace is only on the component side of the board
- you would normally solder on the opposite side, but if the thru-plated
hole has been damaged, you must be aware that the lead must be soldered on
the component side to complete the circuit - that is often difficult if the
component is something like an electrolytic capacitor that sits right down
on the board and you cannot solder under it.  The only cure is to repair the
break with point to point wire.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/13/2011 9:18 AM, John Ragle wrote:
>      A tiny drill-bit can be used to clear remaining solder out of the 
> holes, BUT BE CAREFUL not to cut away the actual hole plating, as this 
> may break a needed connection between the top and bottom layers of the 
> PC board. I use a "pin vise" for this kind of operation, not a Dremel 
> or other power device.
>
>