[Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?

[Matt Zilmer]

If it's tight enough to require this much intervention and
compenstion, just drill off all of the screw heads and replace the 2-D
block and the countersunk screws.  Don't panic.

You're not dealing with a relic, it's a modern ham rig.  Any part(s)
can be replaced easily, and Elecraft support for problems like this is
excellent.

After this much discussion I have little doubt Elecraft tech support
would not send the replacement parts to you gratis in an envelope
pretty quick-quick.  They almost always do this.  It is Their Way.

73,
matt W6NIA

On Sun, 13 Nov 2011 19:50:27 -0700, you wrote:

>While I'm at it, here are a couple of tricks used by aviation mechanics.
>
>Using a good screwdriver tip, dip it spark plug cleaner abrasive, then
>try it on the screwhead.
>
>OK, so you don't keep a stock of spark plug cleaner abrasive, another
>trick is to use a very small amount of crazy glue on the screwdriver tip
>and cement the tip to the screw.
>
>One that works for me with small screws, but it has a higher risk of
>damaging something if it slips off.  And wear eye protection, most of
>the times my flush cutters failed they sent the broken blade flying as a
>projectile.  I put one blade of the flush cutter in the centre of the
>screw and grip the outside edge of the screw with the other blade and
>getting started backing out.
>
>Another risky approach, again eye protection is recommended, if you have
>a small enough chisel, then with light taps from a light ball peen
>hammer drive the chisel into one edge of the screw counter clockwise
>enough to loosen it.
>
>Lastly, and only if you have good eyes, an excellent sense of having the
>drill bit square to the screw, and a steady hand, you could drill out
>the centre of the screw and remove the remains.  In cases where the
>screw bottomed out onto something solid and nothing else worked, this
>usually does.  There is very very high risk of drilling off square
>though and damaging the original threads.
>
>   Ron VE8RT
>
>
>
>On Sun, 2011-11-13 at 21:15 -0500, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>> I would like to add 2 things.  First, a worn screwdriver tip can strip 
>> out the screwhead - if there is any doubt and the corners of the tip 
>> look at all shiny, buy a new one - of course, after the screwhead is 
>> stripped, it is like closing the barn door after the horse got out.  I 
>> replace the #1 phillips screwdriver at my workbench every 3 or 4 
>> months.  Once the edges get rounded, there is danger of stripping out 
>> the screwhead.  When buying a new screwdriver, get a good one, bargain 
>> tools will cause you headaches in the long run.
>> 
>> Secondly, this is a potential problem with steel screws binding in 
>> aluminum - it is also temperature dependent - aluminum and steel do not 
>> expand at the same rate.  A tiny drop of oil on the screw threads when 
>> inserting the screw will prevent future occurrences, and often a drop of 
>> oil around the screw head and a half hour of patience while it seeps in 
>> will allow the screw to be removed.
>> 
>> That is just my experience of working with screws accumulated over the 
>> past 50 years.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>> 
>> On 11/13/2011 5:06 PM, DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote:
>> > Besides what Bill has contributed to your issue, I had to leave the 2D
>> > in place and manage to remove all the other screws so that the block
>> > came off with the side panel.  I then used a traditional pliers to
>> > undo the block.  So like I said, no way I made it that tight
>> > originally.  Maybe it's an Elecraft feature...self-tightening screws?
>> > LOL
>> >
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