[Elecraft] Pleased...P3 No. 1327...

[John Ragle]

Interesting how my original comment specifically about powering the PR6 
and the P3 generated such a wide spectrum of (dare I say irrelevant?) 
responses!

First, I agree that an RCA "y" is a reasonable fix. I don't happen to 
have a RS store close by, and to order a "y" seems unreasonable, at 
least until I have some other items to add...I can get along without the 
PR6 until then...when 6 is open, attenuators are more in demand than 
preamps...in the day-long opening on 4/27 I ran almost all day with the 
attenuator "in."

Second, I don't plan to plug in the coffee pot or an electric blanket, 
just the PAR6 and P3. I do not like the idea of adding yet another 
little box to the collection I already have, to accommodate a 12 volt 
relay and jacks. If I wanted to do this, I would just connect the PR6 to 
the K3's power supply directly, as it is usually "on" when the K3 is on.

Third, it might be just as easy to drill a hole and mount another RCA 
(or whatever) jack. The reason to NOT do this turns on whether Elecraft 
would touch one of their units that has been "violated." I recently had 
a very negative interaction with TenTec who refused to repair one of 
their boxes because it had an extra power outlet installed in the back 
apron..."custom modification, yatadda yatadda..."

I have nothing against coffee pots.

John Ragle -- W1ZI

=====

On 5/3/2011 9:41 PM, Fred Townsend wrote:
> I would disagree on being the 'most reasonable' [fix]. However I do think
> the relay solution is a good one if you are planning on plugging the 12 V
> coffee pot in.
>
> I think this issue is the classic glass half empty or half full. There are
> really two issues:
> 1) A field Fix
> 2) A wish list for feature products
>
> As for #1 the Radio Shack solution is a good but one should apply the
> appropriate Murphy law that being the probability that the Radio Shack
> appliance will be forgotten on any field day is directly proportional to the
> distance to the nearest Radio Shack. If FD is held at RS then the appliance
> will be remembered. If FD is held in the Yukon Territories the probability
> the appliance will be forgotten is 99.9%. Ask any FD chairman!
>
> As for #2 yes it will require a change to the PCB, the sheet metal, two
> manuals, BOM, and possibly the fuse rating. I still think it's easy to do.
> To do being on the next clean up run of the PCB. Easy does not mean
> insignificant.
>
> de Fred, AE6QL
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: elecraft-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
> Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2011 7:02 AM
> To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Pleased...P3 No. 1327...
>
>    The current available from the K3 DC output jack is limited.  A PR6 and a
> P3 just about max it out.
> For those who want to turn multiple 12 volt powered accessories on and off
> with the K3, drive the coil of a 12 volt relay from the K3 DC output jack
> and run the power supply feed through the relay contacts.  Lots of devices
> can then be turned on/off with the K3.  That is the most sensible solution
> IMHO, no worry about overloading the K3 12 volt output.
>
> A little enclosure to hold the relay and several RCA jacks or other
> connector of your choice is an easy project to construct.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 5/3/2011 9:52 AM, Phil Hystad wrote:
>> On May 3, 2011, at 5:48 AM, R. Kevin Stover wrote:
>>
>>> Define "easy".
>>>
>>> Run down to Radios Shack a purchase an RCA 1 to 2 port cable or have
>>> Elecraft re-engineer/re-design the radio?
>>>
>> Actually, given what I have seen out of Wayne and Eric, my bet is on
>> the re-engineer/re-design of the radio as being easier.
>>
>> But, I am not suggesting they do that.  As for me, I don't concern my
>> self too much with how things are plugged in.  And, turning stuff on
>> from one switch is not that big of a thing to me.
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