[Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector

[Kurt Cramer]

20 A with 1.2 volt drop? 24 watts, the connector would melt!
Kurt

> From: vk4bof.elecraft at gmail.com
> To: ron at cobi.biz; elecraft at mailman.qth.net
> Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 08:08:28 +1000
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
> 
> I have to admit that I am not a fan of APP's either.
> I just cannot relate to the voltage drop across the connectors when drawing 20+A.
> On my rig (with its factory built cable) it approaches 1.2 Volt. (And yes, the connectors do get warm!)
> Even with decent cables that I have made using 4mm wire and 45Amp PP connectors I still see .6 to .8V drop.
> That to my mind is not acceptable.
> So, once the warranty expires on my K3 (in May) I am going to ditch the APP's and solder a fly lead of 4mm twin lead wire directly to where the APP's were or look at some (better) alternatives.
>  
> 
> Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF
> Elecraft K3 # 4257
>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>   From: Ron D'Eau Claire 
>   To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net 
>   Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 7:55 AM
>   Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
> 
> 
>   At the risk of re-energizing an old debate, I have *never* crimped a
>   PowerPole connector and have *never* had a problem. All of mine are soldered
>   just as Elecraft recommends if you don't have the correct crimp tool. 
> 
>   In the APP Power Supply Cable Kit instruction sheet is a detailed cut-away
>   drawing of how the APP connector contacts insert into the shell and lock for
>   solid, reliable contact. 
> 
>   Ron AC7AC
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   -----Original Message-----
> 
>   I guess my problem is: after reaching a certain age I have developed a bag
>   full of skills, which have served me very well for over a half century.
>   Installing small connectors is a piece of cake, that is until I came against
>   the APP.  Didn't think needed to read the instruction sheet.  After all, I
>   should be able to correctly install this with my bag of knowledge, right?
>   Now that I have achieved a higher level of connector expertise, I still
>   prefer the Molex, but that's me. 
>   Also, something about having to buy a $30 crimper to do the right job tends
>   to rub me in the wrong direction as well.
>   Thanks for the bandwidth. 
>   BillHarris-w7kxb/7
>   (long live the KISS principal)
> 
>   > From: k6lmp at me.com
>   > Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 12:31:14 -0700
>   > To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
>   > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Shut Down  Resolved!
>   > 
>   > When making up APP connectors, you have to be VERY sure that the little
>   lip on the connecting pin (the part that's soldered onto the wire) extends
>   completely into the plastic housing so that it locks itself over the metal
>   part inside the plastic housing.  Viewed from the side it looks something
>   like this:
>   > 
>   > =============\
>   > ------------- \
>   > 
>   > where the double line (string of = signs) represents the connector that's
>   soldered onto the wire, the diagonal slashes represent the lip at the end of
>   that connector, and the single line of dashes represents the metal part of
>   the plastic housing.  If you can pull the wire out, it ain't locked in
>   place. 
>   > 
>   > Once I realized this, I have never had a problem with APPs.
>   > 
>   > 
>   > Lew K6LMP
>   > 
> 
> 
>          
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