[Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector

[Tim N9PUZ]

For what it's worth Anderson Power Products does not recommend that 
PowerPoles be soldered. They are designed as a crimp connector. I have 
both a West Mountain crimper which does a good job and a genuine 
Anderson Power Products ratchet crimper that does a really excellent 
job. I have never experienced a voltage drop like was described here on 
properly installed connectors either in amateur radio equipment or in 
high performance electric RC airplanes where the currents were in the 
40A range.

Tim N9PUZ

On 3/24/2011 5:39 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>    Ron,
>
> The same here.  The APP offers a large contact area and low resistance
> when properly assembled.
> I think the key here is "properly assembled".  For those who think that
> "almost like the manual diagrams" is good enough, I have a revelation
> for you - the APP connector must be "just like" the manual - if it is
> not, you will experience "flakey (a technical term)" connections,
> excessive voltage drops, and loose APP connector fittings.
>
> Solder those connectors for lowest resistance, and do not get excessive
> solder on the outside of the blade - that should allow you to assemble
> the APP as indicated in the manual - if the blade does not click over
> the locking tongue, it is not properly assembled.
>
> BTW - all the radios I have with Molex connectors have a short DC cable
> attached, and that short cable is terminated in an APP connector.  No
> problems with acquiring the "right" Molex connector and wiring it
> correctly - just do it once and the APP genderless connectors take care
> of the other potential problems.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 3/24/2011 5:55 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>> At the risk of re-energizing an old debate, I have *never* crimped a
>> PowerPole connector and have *never* had a problem. All of mine are soldered
>> just as Elecraft recommends if you don't have the correct crimp tool.
>>
>> In the APP Power Supply Cable Kit instruction sheet is a detailed cut-away
>> drawing of how the APP connector contacts insert into the shell and lock for
>> solid, reliable contact.
>>
>> Ron AC7AC
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>
>> I guess my problem is: after reaching a certain age I have developed a bag
>> full of skills, which have served me very well for over a half century.
>> Installing small connectors is a piece of cake, that is until I came against
>> the APP.  Didn't think needed to read the instruction sheet.  After all, I
>> should be able to correctly install this with my bag of knowledge, right?
>> Now that I have achieved a higher level of connector expertise, I still
>> prefer the Molex, but that's me.
>> Also, something about having to buy a $30 crimper to do the right job tends
>> to rub me in the wrong direction as well.
>> Thanks for the bandwidth.
>> BillHarris-w7kxb/7
>> (long live the KISS principal)
>>
>>> From: k6lmp at me.com
>>> Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 12:31:14 -0700
>>> To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
>>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Shut Down  Resolved!
>>>
>>> When making up APP connectors, you have to be VERY sure that the little
>> lip on the connecting pin (the part that's soldered onto the wire) extends
>> completely into the plastic housing so that it locks itself over the metal
>> part inside the plastic housing.  Viewed from the side it looks something
>> like this:
>>> =============\
>>> ------------- \
>>>
>>> where the double line (string of = signs) represents the connector that's
>> soldered onto the wire, the diagonal slashes represent the lip at the end of
>> that connector, and the single line of dashes represents the metal part of
>> the plastic housing.  If you can pull the wire out, it ain't locked in
>> place.
>>> Once I realized this, I have never had a problem with APPs.
>>>
>>>
>>> Lew K6LMP
>>>
>>
>>    		 	   		
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