[Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector

Don Wilhelm w3fpr at embarqmail.com
Thu Mar 24 18:26:34 EDT 2011


  Jeff,

Something is wrong - the specification on the contact resistance of the 
APP connectors is 600 microohms.
At a 20 amp current load, that should only result in a 0.012 volt drop 
across the connector.  Are you certain you are measuring correctly 
(directly across the connector)?  Or are you relying on the K2/K3 
display voltage to determine the drop.  Both have a series diode 
in-line, and the displayed voltage will be less than the power supply 
voltage - not due to the APP connector, but to the series diode.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/24/2011 6:08 PM, Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF wrote:
> I have to admit that I am not a fan of APP's either.
> I just cannot relate to the voltage drop across the connectors when drawing 20+A.
> On my rig (with its factory built cable) it approaches 1.2 Volt. (And yes, the connectors do get warm!)
> Even with decent cables that I have made using 4mm wire and 45Amp PP connectors I still see .6 to .8V drop.
> That to my mind is not acceptable.
> So, once the warranty expires on my K3 (in May) I am going to ditch the APP's and solder a fly lead of 4mm twin lead wire directly to where the APP's were or look at some (better) alternatives.
>
>
> Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF
> Elecraft K3 # 4257
>    ----- Original Message -----
>    From: Ron D'Eau Claire
>    To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
>    Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 7:55 AM
>    Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
>
>
>    At the risk of re-energizing an old debate, I have *never* crimped a
>    PowerPole connector and have *never* had a problem. All of mine are soldered
>    just as Elecraft recommends if you don't have the correct crimp tool.
>
>    In the APP Power Supply Cable Kit instruction sheet is a detailed cut-away
>    drawing of how the APP connector contacts insert into the shell and lock for
>    solid, reliable contact.
>
>    Ron AC7AC
>
>
>
>
>    -----Original Message-----
>
>    I guess my problem is: after reaching a certain age I have developed a bag
>    full of skills, which have served me very well for over a half century.
>    Installing small connectors is a piece of cake, that is until I came against
>    the APP.  Didn't think needed to read the instruction sheet.  After all, I
>    should be able to correctly install this with my bag of knowledge, right?
>    Now that I have achieved a higher level of connector expertise, I still
>    prefer the Molex, but that's me.
>    Also, something about having to buy a $30 crimper to do the right job tends
>    to rub me in the wrong direction as well.
>    Thanks for the bandwidth.
>    BillHarris-w7kxb/7
>    (long live the KISS principal)
>
>    >  From: k6lmp at me.com
>    >  Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 12:31:14 -0700
>    >  To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
>    >  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Shut Down  Resolved!
>    >
>    >  When making up APP connectors, you have to be VERY sure that the little
>    lip on the connecting pin (the part that's soldered onto the wire) extends
>    completely into the plastic housing so that it locks itself over the metal
>    part inside the plastic housing.  Viewed from the side it looks something
>    like this:
>    >
>    >  =============\
>    >  ------------- \
>    >
>    >  where the double line (string of = signs) represents the connector that's
>    soldered onto the wire, the diagonal slashes represent the lip at the end of
>    that connector, and the single line of dashes represents the metal part of
>    the plastic housing.  If you can pull the wire out, it ain't locked in
>    place.
>    >
>    >  Once I realized this, I have never had a problem with APPs.
>    >
>    >
>    >  Lew K6LMP
>    >
>
>
>
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