[Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
Don Wilhelm
w3fpr at embarqmail.com
Thu Mar 24 18:26:34 EDT 2011
Jeff,
Something is wrong - the specification on the contact resistance of the
APP connectors is 600 microohms.
At a 20 amp current load, that should only result in a 0.012 volt drop
across the connector. Are you certain you are measuring correctly
(directly across the connector)? Or are you relying on the K2/K3
display voltage to determine the drop. Both have a series diode
in-line, and the displayed voltage will be less than the power supply
voltage - not due to the APP connector, but to the series diode.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 3/24/2011 6:08 PM, Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF wrote:
> I have to admit that I am not a fan of APP's either.
> I just cannot relate to the voltage drop across the connectors when drawing 20+A.
> On my rig (with its factory built cable) it approaches 1.2 Volt. (And yes, the connectors do get warm!)
> Even with decent cables that I have made using 4mm wire and 45Amp PP connectors I still see .6 to .8V drop.
> That to my mind is not acceptable.
> So, once the warranty expires on my K3 (in May) I am going to ditch the APP's and solder a fly lead of 4mm twin lead wire directly to where the APP's were or look at some (better) alternatives.
>
>
> Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF
> Elecraft K3 # 4257
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ron D'Eau Claire
> To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
> Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 7:55 AM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
>
>
> At the risk of re-energizing an old debate, I have *never* crimped a
> PowerPole connector and have *never* had a problem. All of mine are soldered
> just as Elecraft recommends if you don't have the correct crimp tool.
>
> In the APP Power Supply Cable Kit instruction sheet is a detailed cut-away
> drawing of how the APP connector contacts insert into the shell and lock for
> solid, reliable contact.
>
> Ron AC7AC
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I guess my problem is: after reaching a certain age I have developed a bag
> full of skills, which have served me very well for over a half century.
> Installing small connectors is a piece of cake, that is until I came against
> the APP. Didn't think needed to read the instruction sheet. After all, I
> should be able to correctly install this with my bag of knowledge, right?
> Now that I have achieved a higher level of connector expertise, I still
> prefer the Molex, but that's me.
> Also, something about having to buy a $30 crimper to do the right job tends
> to rub me in the wrong direction as well.
> Thanks for the bandwidth.
> BillHarris-w7kxb/7
> (long live the KISS principal)
>
> > From: k6lmp at me.com
> > Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 12:31:14 -0700
> > To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Shut Down Resolved!
> >
> > When making up APP connectors, you have to be VERY sure that the little
> lip on the connecting pin (the part that's soldered onto the wire) extends
> completely into the plastic housing so that it locks itself over the metal
> part inside the plastic housing. Viewed from the side it looks something
> like this:
> >
> > =============\
> > ------------- \
> >
> > where the double line (string of = signs) represents the connector that's
> soldered onto the wire, the diagonal slashes represent the lip at the end of
> that connector, and the single line of dashes represents the metal part of
> the plastic housing. If you can pull the wire out, it ain't locked in
> place.
> >
> > Once I realized this, I have never had a problem with APPs.
> >
> >
> > Lew K6LMP
> >
>
>
>
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