[Elecraft] K2/KSB2: Re-insulating toroid wire..

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

For peace of mind, just use the tip of a small flat screwdriver to place a
small square of tape on the crystal case to prevent contact.  Though I doubt
"bumping" would cause contact.  Messing around inside the case, maybe, but
not bumping the rig.

73, Guy.

On Sun, Sep 19, 2010 at 7:41 AM, <zendoc at netspace.net.au> wrote:

> Hi group,
>
> Wondering if anyone has thoughts on how one would go about re-insulating
> areas
> of bare toroid wire?
>
> This is why I'm asking:  I've finished building the KSB2 module.  The board
> holes for the leads of the small RFC1 and RFC2 are relatively widely spaced
> apart and the leads of my toroids are tinned right up to the toroid core. I
> installed them between the crystal cans and the resistor packs.  They
> fitted
> fine. I pulled the leads tight and soldered them in.  I checked for
> continuity
> between the crystal cans and the toroid leads and on one of the RFCs, sure
> enough, there was a short between the toroid windings and the can.  With a
> bright light and magnifying glass, I saw that because of the direction that
> the
> taught toroid lead had pulled and the relatively long stretch of that
> tinned
> lead above the board, it had made contact with the crystal case.
>
> To fix the problem, I simply adjusted the position of the lead (bent it
> laterally a bit). But now I'm wondering how much bumping around it'd take
> to
> re-create the short.  To save having to remove the RFC and redo it, is
> there
> anything I can paint on the above board exposed lead to re-insulate it?
>
> Or, now the short has been fixed, am I obsessing over nothing? Or, should I
> just
> bite the bullet, remove the RFC, re-wind it leaving some enamel on the lead
> and
> re-install it?
>
> Other than that, the KSB2, KDSP2 and KNB2 have all been very satisfying
> builds.
>  Just need the K2 to go with them! :)  Hopefully my missing parts will
> arrive
> this week :)
>
>
> Thanks!
>
> 73,
>
> John
> VK7JB
>
>
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