[Elecraft] Day 1: Fried something already?

[Owen B. Mehegan]

Well, I received my replacement parts today, but so far in spite of my  
best efforts, I've been unable to desolder the K12 relay from my RF  
board. I've used a combination of solder wick and a pump, and I can  
see though the holes at this stage, but I still can't get the relay  
free! What's the preferred method of doing this?

--
owen at nerdnetworks.org (Owen B. Mehegan)
'I learned this, at least, by my experiment;
that if one advances confidently in the direction of his dreams,
and endeavors to live the life which he has imagined,
he will meet with a success unexpected in common hours.'
  --Henry David Thoreau

On Nov 10, 2010, at 4:45 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

> Owen,
>
> That pin numbering is correct - it is just like an IC.  From the  
> top, position the white bar to the left, and pin 1 will be the  
> leftmost pin toward you.  On the bottom, you can usually identify  
> pin 1 by the different shaped solder pad.  Normally pin 1 is round  
> while the others are rectangular.
>
> On 11/10/2010 1:19 AM, Owen B. Mehegan wrote:
>>
>> Hi Don -
>>
>> I've just had a look at K12 and I think it may be the culprit.  
>> First I
>> turned the K2 on, tuned it to 40m, then turned it off and unplugged
>> everything. I'm not positive I've got the pin numbering right, but no
>> two adjacent pins on a side have continuity right now, so I think the
>> diagnosis is correct. Looking at the relay from the top, I'm assuming
>> that the bottom left pin, when viewed with the writing right side up,
>> is 1. So when I flip the board over and look at the bottom with the
>> coax and power connectors pointing away from me, pin 1 is the top one
>> on the right of the two columns. I.e.:
>>
>> (10) *  * (1)
>> (9) *  * (2)
>> (8) *  * (3)
>> (7) *  * (4)
>> (6) *  * (5)
>>
>> If this sounds right, I'll go ahead and order a replacement relay and
>> hope that's my only problem.
>>
>