[Elecraft] [NCCC] Elecraft

[Fred Jensen]

Jim Brown K9YC wrote:
> On Tue, 16 Mar 2010 13:54:23 -0700, Rick Sealock wrote:
> 
>> So as a prospective Elecraft K3 purchaser, what options should I get?
> 
>> Want both SSB and CW capabilities (and, maybe, the new panadaptor?)
> 
> I recommend all the HF modules, including the XVTR module.

Well, I know better than to disagree with Jim, his knowledge goes far 
beyond mine.  So rather than disagree, I'll offer an *alternative 
algorithm* for deciding how to configure your K3.

STEP 1:  Write down the top three radio activities you think you'll do 
with your new K3 ... ragchews, DX, VHF/UHF, contests, etc.  Then, rate 
your operation effort: Casual, Moderate, Intense, D-BB [Driven Beyond 
Belief, we all know who they are :-)].

STEP 2:  Out of 100%, list the fraction of time you expect to be on CW, 
SSB, and Digital modes.

STEP 3:  Out of 100%, list the fraction of time you expect to be QRP in 
any situation.

STEP 4:  List the non-shack uses for your new K3.  "Non-shack" means 
portable like for FD, FOBB, Spartan Sprint outside, mobile, etc.

Throw away the list from Step 2, it doesn't matter, the K3 does 'em all 
just fine.

CASUAL:  Get a vanilla K3 with stock filters.  If your antennas aren't 
well matched, or if you plan on field ops, get the ATU.  It isn't 
expensive, and it works like a charm.  If QRP is not your power of 
choice, get the 100W amp.  If you don't have an RS-232 port available, 
get the KUSB USB-Serial adapter.  If you have one, try it out ... all 
adapters are NOT created equal.  You need it to download firmware. 
Transverter options only if you do VHF/UHF.

MODERATE:  If you mainly ragchew with friends and/or strangers, the 
CASUAL configuration is a good place to start.  If your ops include 
contesting, you might want to pick up a USB Winkeyer or Microham keyer, 
software keying can be really annoying.  Transverter options if you do 
VHF/UHF.  If you don't have a good paddle and CW is a major part of your 
operating plans, the Hexkey from Elecraft is good.

INTENSE:  If you have some big guns within 10-20 miles of you, you might 
want to consider a sharper CW roofing filter.  I'm not sure it is worth 
it for SSB although a lot of guys are using DSP BW of 1.8 Khz on SSB, 
and if you think you might, the 1.8 filter is likely a good deal.  The 
second Rx is probably a really good idea here too.  Diversity reception 
can really make a difference and it requires the sub-Rx.  SO2R will 
require 2 K3's.  A panadapter can be a real asset.

D-BB:  Take Jim's advice, do the transverter stuff if VHF/UHF is in your 
horoscope. SO4R requires 4 K3's [two on the floor and prehensile toes]. 
  Panadapter is probably mandatory [as are 5 over 5 over 5 on 80 - 10, 
and multiple Sterba curtains on 160].

Keep in mind ... there is nothing "final" about your K3 configuration. 
Even if you put every available piece of hardware into it, it is still 
an SDR, and one never knows what they'll come up with next that is 
implemented in machine code.

Fred K6DGW

Intense for contesting, casual for all the rest, no VHF/UHF [do that 
with other gear when I do it at all], 75%/10%/15% [CW/SSB/RTTY].  Three 
big guns within 3 mi -- KF6T @ 1.72 mi and 1,500W; WX6V @ 2.11 mi and 
about 800W; K6IDX @ 13 mi with 1,500W line-of-sight.

Vanilla K3 w/stock filters, ATU, and DVR [added later for ARRL SS SSB]. 
I don't use the DSP NR very much, the NB pretty much cleans up the 
spectrum for me.