[Elecraft] BNC Connectors
Doug Joyce
d_joyce at sympatico.ca
Thu Jan 28 08:47:54 EST 2010
Further comments to Paul's post.
Crimp connectors (double crimp preferred) are a whole lot easier, more
reliable and faster to do - but stick with brand name connectors and the
proper crimp tool. I've used Amphenol for many years (easily available in
Toronto) but I'm sure there are others as well.
I've also been using the method outlined in W5FC's document for years
without any problems - just one further comment. Once you have soldered the
cable braid to the end of the adapter / reducer, trimmed the insulation on
the center conductor and screwed it onto the PL-259 housing you only need to
solder the center conductor. If you tighten the reducer onto the PL-259
housing with vice grips it will not come apart and there is no need to
solder the adapter to the housing or try to fill the four circular holes
with solder.
One other comment re BNC connectors - if you use a single crimp connector
and need to solder the center conductor (use cable with a stranded center
conducor) use a small temp controlled soldering iron for the job. It's not
a job for a soldering gun!
73,
Doug VE3MV
email d_joyce at sympatico.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Christensen" <w9ac at arrl.net>
To: <elecraft at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 6:38 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] BNC Connectors
>> So I guess for the next real question where would one recommend to get
>> PL-259 and BNC connectors for this job.
>
> I'm with Jack on the use of double-crimp connectors for an inside
> installations. I tend to use soldered connectors outdoors although with
> the
> right sealant (e.g., Scotchkote) together with heat-shrink tubing, I
> imagine
> that crimped connectors can also hold up to weather extremes.
>
> RF Industries is my primary supplier of crimped connectors, mostly
> purchased
> through Tessco. http://www.tessco.com/ If you set up an on-line
> commercial
> account with them, typical small quantity pricing is very reasonable.
>
>> I've attempted to do this with PL-259 connectors before and was
>> unsuccessful (but I tried to use a less than optimal soldering iron and
>
> I rarely recommend alternative installation methods to that provided by a
> manufacturer, but if you attempt to use soldered PL-259s with a "UG"
> reducer, this method sets the standard in my opinion:
>
> http://www.w5fc.org/files/how-to/PL259.PDF
>
> It's not a novel idea, but there are several benefits to the use of this
> method. The primary benefit is that the quality of the braided portion of
> the installation can be inspected prior to insertion into the PL-259 body.
> The method recommended by Amphenol over the past several decades leaves
> the
> user with no true way of knowing about the quality of the job. You "hope"
> that the job was completed correctly and that no further damage occurs
> after
> filling in the four circular PL-259 openings with solder. A multimeter
> can
> be used to detect for obvious shorts, but "ragged-edge" problems can go
> undetected.
>
> When using silver-plated UG reducers and a vise, it's possible to complete
> a
> PL-259 connector in under two minutes. I use a Weller soldering station
> set
> to 750-degrees F and with silver-plated PL-259 bodies and UG reducers,
> there's ample heat for the job and there's no fight to work the flow of
> solder. At the conclusion, you'll have confidence that the job was
> completed accurately.
>
> When I first tried this method, I honestly could not stop making jumper
> cables. What I had painfully tried to do for the past 35 years instantly
> became a pleasant experience. In a half hour, must have made close to a
> dozen cables using RG-400. The installation goes very fast when placing
> the
> coax vertically in a vise. The reducer goes on next and you have a
> perfect
> platform to complete the soldering of the braid on to the edge of the
> reducer.
>
> Paul, W9AC
>
>
>
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