[Elecraft] Toroid stripping/tinning

[Mel Farrer]

Hello,

I found the same solution, but a little different.  I ruined a tip drilling a hole in it.  SO the next time a just counter sunk a little on the flat side and took a hacksaw blade and made a groove from one side to the other.  I clamped the handle of the soldering iron in the panvise and with the hole filled with solder, I moved the wire back and forth in the groove through the solder blob until the enamel came off.  It worked slick.  I did have to add more solder from time to tome to get the flux helping the wetting of the wire.  To each his own, hi.

Mel, K6KBE




--- On Wed, 11/11/09, John R. Lonigro <johnlon at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

From: John R. Lonigro <johnlon at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Elecraft] Toroid stripping/tinning
To: don at w3fpr.com
Cc: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
Date: Wednesday, November 11, 2009, 3:52 AM

This reminds me of a slick solution to the toroid stripping and tinning 
problem I saw on another reflector (I think).  Get an old soldering iron 
(I used a wood-burning iron) and drill a small blind hole in the tip to 
make a mini solder pot.  When you are ready to strip the toroid leads, 
get the iron hot, melt some solder into the hole until it is full, then 
dip the leads into the hole, one at a time.  After a few seconds of 
bubbling, the lead comes out professionally stripped and tinned.  I wish 
I knew this trick when I was building my K2 many years ago.  That was 
the only part about winding toroids I didn't like and felt unsure about.

73's,

John AA0VE

Don Wilhelm wrote:
Check that toroid carefully for poorly tinned and soldered leads. If you 
can see any enamel on the solder side of the board, that is a sure sign 
that the lead was not wellstripped and tinned. Removal and re-tinning is 
the only cure.
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