[Elecraft] K3 Audio Low Pass Filter

[Brett Howard]

When I installed mine I just filled up the Via's a bit more and then was
able to get it all easily with the solder sucker.  Although I was using
a sucker connected to house air and capable of RoHS temps (although I'm
not sure if I stepped up into those ranges).  

The board went in quite smoothly and I was very pleased with the sound
enhancements.  

As far as installation I did a lil trick in that I put in the wires (all
6 of them) then cut each wire at a different height.  That allows you to
align each wire one at a time.  Then I used the knurled nut from the
headphones jack as a spacer off of the main DSP board before
soldering.  

All in all I'm quite pleased with the sound difference.

~Brett

On Fri, 2009-07-03 at 13:39 -0700, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> I don't know who wrote the instructions you got. I've not worked on
> installing that board.  
> 
> It sounds like it uses some open vias (the round 'grommets' that join traces
> different opposite layers of the board together. 
> 
> I'd bet the person who created the document had a version with open vias.
> However, I've noticed that some boards have the vias open and others have
> them full of solder. 
> 
> Ron AC7AC
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: elecraft-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mike Scott
> Sent: Friday, July 03, 2009 1:05 PM
> To: Elecraft at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Audio Low Pass Filter
> 
> I just completed an installation of the K3 audio low pass filter board, the
> one Lyle put out to individuals who wanted to try it. I was busy until now
> as the boards came out some time ago.
> 
> It took a lot longer than expected because all the K3 DSP board holes were
> full of solder. The instructions seemed to indicate that four of the holes
> should have been clear, i.e., just stick the leads through. The instructions
> seemed to be missing a section though as they never suggested soldering four
> of the wires. I thought maybe a page was missing but the step numbers didn't
> seem to indicate missing steps. Anyway, solder wick and solder suckers
> didn't work. The holes are very small and it is tight quarters where a
> miscue of the soldering iron could cause damage. I finally had to heat the
> wire I wanted to put in the holes (resistor leads) and heat my way through
> the soldered holes.
> 
> For future reference, what would be the right way to do this? 
> 
> I would like to consider making more audio modifications, the one changing
> headphone audio coupling capacitors to larger values for example. I looked
> at those capacitors and I wondered how I was going to get them out. The
> solder leads on one side seemed to be down at the bottom of a narrow canyon
> caused by interfering components.
> 
> Mike Scott - AE6WA
> Tarzana, CA (DM04 / near LA)
> NAQCC 3535
> K3-100 #508 / KX1  #1311
> 
> 
> 
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