[Elecraft] Upgrade question

Joe Planisky jplan at jeffnet.org
Thu Jan 29 10:37:00 EST 2009


Hi Jim,

I've had good results using a GC Electronics "Solder Popper" (part #  
12-2157).  It's a 30W soldering iron with a built-in spring loaded  
solder sucker.  While it's certainly not equal to something like a  
Hakko 808, it's adequate for occasional use.  And at less than $40,  
it's about 1/4 the cost.

Note, however, that it seems to run hotter than a normal iron, so you  
have to be careful not to linger on PC board connections. It would be  
a good idea to try it on some junk PC boards to get a feel for it  
before using it on your K2.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Jan 29, 2009, at 6:41 AM, Jim Giercyk wrote:

> Thanks guys!  I purchased all of the updates from A to B.  It looks  
> like there are some substantial improvements, and I can't wait to  
> get it up and running again to hear what the new and improved rig  
> sounds like.  I also bought a new set of XTALs, but I am dreading  
> taking the old ones out.  Any tips on removing them without damaging  
> the board?  Since they are up against the board it's impossible to  
> cut the leads, and since the xtal basically acts as a heat sink, I'm  
> thinking it would take a lot of heat to get it out.  Thanks again,
>
> Jim
> N2SUB
>
>
>
> --- olinger at bellsouth.net wrote:
>
> From: "Guy Olinger, K2AV" <olinger at bellsouth.net>
> To: <don at w3fpr.com>,	<jim at giercyk.com>
> Cc: <elecraft at mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade question
> Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 21:58:21 -0500
>
> I did all the A to B upgrades and other mods on my K2 #1239,  
> including the
> matched crystals, and then added the KDSP2.  What a difference.
>
> It is a 10W version and I keep a battery in it, so I added the KIO2  
> to talk
> to the computer and the key line mod for amp keying for contesting  
> use. I
> can drive my pair of 4X150's with it for 400-500 watts QRO if I want.
>
> It took a while to work through it, and getting the xtal and dsp  
> skirts to
> match on CW took some getting used to, but when I got it all done,  
> the work
> turned the K2 into a red-hot box.
>
> I did a 160 contest QRP with it and the RX was never overloaded. The  
> first
> two CW dsp and xtal filter settings are set to give me a 400 and a  
> 250 Hz
> resultant. Skirts keep going straight down out of my measurement
> capabilities.
>
> Yes, you can run on 160 using QRP. Going up the band to the land of  
> ugly SWR
> is not a problem, just use the auto-tune.  Then again, maybe it's  
> the mojo
> that makes the run.
>
> I  carry the K2 out to an antenna, use the KAT2 to match it at the  
> feed and
> it tells me what it used to do it. That has been ever so handy.   
> Never gets
> fooled by close BC stations.  Have used it with a 2m rubber duckie  
> to sniff
> out an HF feedline break.
>
> 73, Guy K2AV
> K2/K3 #1239
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Don Wilhelm" <w3fpr at embarqmail.com>
> To: <jim at giercyk.com>
> Cc: <elecraft at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 8:15 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade question
>
>
>> Jim,
>>
>> I forgot to mention - for all K2s with serial numbers less than 2560,
>> replace the IF crystals too - the filter will improve  
>> dramatically.  A
>> set of 7 matched crystals is only $10 from Elecraft and if the KSB2  
>> is
>> installed, a set of 14 matched crystals is only $15.  There is no  
>> need
>> to match the KSB2 crystals to that used in the K2 IF filter, 2  
>> matched
>> sets of 7 crystals will work nicely too (if you purchase a KSB2  
>> option,
>> you will receive a matched set of 7 crystals with the kit.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>> Jim Giercyk wrote:
>>> Hello all,
>>>
>>> I've been out of the loop for a while, but I am looking to fire up  
>>> the
>>> soldering iron and digging in again.  My K2, #1998, was one of the
>>> earlier kits.  It is a revision A.  Right now it has the 160 board,
>>> internal battery and NB options, but it is strictly CW.
>>>
>>> I want to get the rig back 'up to snuff' and do whatever mods need  
>>> to
>>> be done to make it current.  I plan to add the SSB module, and
>>> eventually ditch the battery and add the amp, but for now, what are
>>> the critical drop-dead mods I need to do so that I am starting on a
>>> level playing field?  I sold my big-rig last year and so the K2 is  
>>> my
>>> one-and-only.
>>>
>>> I also noticed that there is a lot of documentation on soldering,  
>>> but
>>> none on desoldering.  Any good ideas would be appreciated since I  
>>> see
>>> a lopt of that in my future.  Thanks guys and gals,
>>>
>>> Jim
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>
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