[Elecraft] [KX1] KX1 #02140

[EMD]

Phase one of the build is complete and everything has checked out.  No smoke
or frying parts!  So far this has been an enjoyable process.  I've taken my
time and not worked late and still made a minor mistake, I overlooked
installing J1 after D1 and did not figure it out until I was going to try
the phase one alignment and there was no where to plug power in.  Oops!  So
it looks like I need to be just a little more careful with phase two.

Ed

EMD wrote:
> 
> Hi Don,
> 
> That's a great idea with L6 the less rework I have to do only increases my
> chances of success. 
> 
> The soldering station I bought has three preset temps and you can also set
> an exact temp so hopefully cold solder joints will not be a problem. 
> 
> Thanks for the tip,
> 
> Ed Doyle
> KE7HGA
> 
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Don Wilhelm-4 (via Nabble)"
> <ml-user+39068-2029048044 at n2.nabble.com>
> 
> Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2009 05:49:57 
> To: EMD<edwarddoyle at mac.com>
> Subject: Re:  KX1 #02140
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ed,
> 
> You have made a wise choice.  There is one thing you can do to make 
> things easier when you add the KXB3080 - mount L6 on the bottom of the 
> KX1 board during the initial build.
> 
> Other than that small item, follow the manual carefully and build in the 
> order indicated in the manual.  The KX1 is packed tight with components, 
> so pay particular attention to the 'mechanical' side of the 
> instructions.  Work at your own pace, and do not work on it when you are 
> tired.
> 
> If you are not experienced at soldering PC boards with thru-plated 
> holes, take a look at the Soldering Tutorial on the Elecraft Builder's 
> Resource page.  For the KX1 especially, but it goes for other kits too, 
> pay attention to the amount of solder - apply no more than necessary to 
> fill the hole plus a very small amount to flow into a smooth fillet.  
> Use a sufficiently high temperature (700-750 deg F) and watch the solder 
> as it melts and flows - it should flow out to a smooth, almost invisible 
> edge on both the component lead and the solder pad.  Insufficient heat 
> and the solder may melt, but not flow resulting in a bad connection, and 
> excess solder can look like a solid connection, but mask a poorly heated 
> solder joint.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> EMD wrote:
>> Hello Elecrafters,
>>
>> Well I will start building my KX1 in a few days.  I have been getting the
>> required equipment and being a first time builder I feel a little over
>> whelmed but reading all the the hints and tips on the reflector has made
>> it
>> a lot easier.  So far I have what I think will get me started, the big
>> item
>> was a soldering station.  I bought a Radio Shack Digital soldering
>> station
>> which is basically a Madell AT201D.  I did not realize that the RS
>> version
>> did not come with extra tips but after a few minutes on the comments
>> section
>> I found out where the tips are available, at madell.com of course.  The
>> tip
>> included I don't think would work well since it's a needle tip so I
>> ordered
>> the spade tip recommended by Elecraft, plus 2 extras.  I also bought a
>> anti
>> static mat and Kester #44 solder 0.025" diameter 3.3% Flux from Digi-Key.
>>
>> My plan is to first build the radio and follow the alignment steps, then
>> add
>> the antenna tuner.  Once the radio is complete I'll learn how to use it,
>> not
>> to mention CW, and then add the the 30 80 meter add on board.  I thought
>> about adding the 3080m board at the same time but since I have not built
>> a
>> kit since my high school days I don't want to get ahead of myself so I
>> think
>> the one thing at a time plan would be best for me.
>>
>> I have not bought any de-soldering equipment yet but but I'm sure that
>> will
>> be next on the list. I am looking forward to getting started and I'm
>> already
>> looking ahead to building the K1 and then the k2.
>>
>> Ed
>>   
>>   
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