[Elecraft] K3 Bottom Front Panel Issues
Merv Schweigert
k9fd at flex.com
Wed Dec 30 15:28:06 EST 2009
Here in the Pacific the SS kit is a must, my screw heads tarnished in a
couple
months on stock screws. I use a tiny dollop of penetrox or similar on
the threads
to make sure they come loose next time. Here in the salt everything
corrodes.
And the proper size driver tip is most important.
73 Merv KH7C
> Brett,
>
> You might consider ordering the Stainless fastener kit K3SSKT instead of spending the time to inventory the ones you'll need.
>
> You get a complete collection of all the exterior screws and nuts with plenty of extras for later.
>
> Oh yeah, get some new, quality screw drivers..
>
> Rick
> K6LE
>
> On 12/30/2009, at 2:29 , Brett Howard wrote:
>
>
>> Ok I know I need to buy new screwdrivers. I'm in the process of buying
>> a set of Whia drivers. I feel that the driver I've been using fits
>> fairly well but the Whia set I have at work seem to fit a little
>> better.
>>
>> Anyway I'm starting to have issues with my bottom front panel after
>> getting into this radio as many times as I have... After the DVR, the
>> audio low pass filter, several additions of filters, the sub RX, and
>> every mod on the website (except for the resistor change for the P3)
>> I'll be doing it when the P3 arrives...
>>
>> Anyway the center most screw position was the one giving me the most
>> fits before. This wasn't near as big of an issue when I didn't have the
>> sub receiver. But now that I have that piece in place being able to put
>> a screwdriver on the top side has become much more work intensive.
>>
>> I've also tried using lock-tite to hold the standoffs onto the screws
>> from the board side so that Its very easy to remove the screws from the
>> bottom and I figured if I ever had to replace the RF board that
>> replacing a few standoffs at the same time would be easy...
>>
>> Anyway I've cammed out of some of the flat head screws ever so slightly
>> here and there and Elecraft graciously provided me with a few
>> replacements to get rid of the ones that were starting to look bad. But
>> this other issue is starting to get really quite ugly.
>>
>> I've gotten to the point where I no longer want to even try opening it
>> because of how far I have too take it apart because of these issues. I
>> got an FM filter for Xmas and because the left front screw and the
>> center most screw wouldn't come out of the bottom I ended up having to
>> pull the front panel and the sub RX in order to install a filter.
>> (granted the Sub RX had to come out partially to get the filter in place
>> but had to come out all the way for the other work).
>>
>> Anyway I think I'd like to replace some of these parts with new ones as
>> the excessive use and attempts with lock-tite have been less than
>> successful. I'm wondering if I should try to make up a BOM of what I
>> need from the Elecraft manual (using elecraft part numbers of course)
>> and then place an order or if I should just head to my parts catalog
>> house and try there.
>>
>> Finally my last question quite concerns me.... I've noted that from
>> several applications on and off that the board has gotten scratched here
>> and there around the screw holes. Being that these are commonly ground
>> points I'm quite worried that I'm not getting the grounding that I
>> should... Just after installing the FM filter I noted that when I plug
>> my mic into the front panel that I get about a .5S unit drop in noise
>> level when the mic is plugged in. Granted I think this is the first
>> time I've even listened to the radio w/ the mic unplugged (even though I
>> rarely ever use it)... But this makes me wonder what may be up here....
>> FWIW I have put shorting wires around the L's in the back for the
>> "Improving the immunity of the Rear-Panel RS232 and Audio Connectors to
>> RF" modification.
>>
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