[Elecraft] K1 U2 extraction help!

[Alan Bloom]

On Fri, 2009-08-28 at 14:51 -0700, Gary W. Marklund wrote:
> I finally found the cause of my inability to align the band filter in my 
> K1 under construction. I installed the RF board U2 backwards :-[ . I've 
> managed to suck the solder from the holes on the bottom of the board, 
> but still have some on the top. I'm trying to salvage the IC (product 
> detector) so am begging for advice on how to successfully free up the 
> solder from the top of the board. This is an 8 pin DIP.

I've had good luck with the following procedure.

1.  First, remove as much of the solder as possible with a solder sucker
and wicking braid.

2.  Then grasp each pin from the bottom of the board with a pair of
needle-nosed pliers and wiggle it back and forth to break the bond of
the remaining solder.  If you managed to remove almost all the solder
from each hole in step 1, then you should be able to free each pin
without damaging anything.

If you can't clear almost all the solder from the holes (i.e. if you
can't see light through all the holes), then it's best to give up on
saving the IC.  As others have suggested, just clip all the leads at the
IC body and remove the pins individually.

> Next question, is there any reason not to use sockets in this location 
> (or any other Elecraft kit for that matter)?

In general, there are two reasons not to use sockets:

1.  Increased cost.
2.  Decreased reliability.

That said, it can be a good idea to use sockets on a homebrew project,
especially if it is a new design that you are likely to have to modify
later.  And, of course, a socket is needed for a ROM or other
programmable device that might have to be changed later.

Al N1AL



> Thanks and 73
> 
> Gary
> KJ7RT
> 
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