[Elecraft] K2 100 Watt Pa Problem

[Matt Zilmer]

You might want to make sure your power supply isn't doing its foldback
or current limiting thing.....  If it is, symptoms you've described
should repeat 100% of the time.

matt, W6NIA
k3 # 24

On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 14:19:11 -0600, you wrote:

>Hello,
>
>I just noticed something else on this problem. The whole radio resets, like 
>turning it off then on again. The word Elecraft pops up on the LCD and the 
>DSP red light blinks on, just like I turned it off then on again.
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>Best,
>DW Holtman
>WB7SSN
>
>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "DW Holtman" <tubestuff at comcast.net>
>To: <Elecraft at mailman.qth.net>
>Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2008 2:09 PM
>Subject: [Elecraft] K2 100 Watt Pa Problem
>
>
>> Hello,
>>
>> I was wondering if anyone else has had a problem like ythis one?
>>
>> I'm was in the process of finishing up my KPA 100. All of the power 
>> supply, bias adjustments etc went as per the book. When I got to page 50 
>> in the manual to test the transmitter at high power the problem shows up.
>>
>> With the Power out turned to around 11 watts, the relay clicks and the 
>> power out is taken over by the KPA 100. Every thing works great until I 
>> get to right at 20 watts. Any power level 20 watts or over, when it is 
>> keyed, a relay klicks, power out shuts off and nothing out. At 18 watts 
>> the power out from the KPA 100 is fine. There are no error messages that I 
>> can find, even on the secondary message menus.
>>
>> Any suggestions why the PA works up to 20 watts then shuts down with no 
>> error message?
>>
>> Best,
>> DW Holtman
>> WB7SSN
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" <ron at cobi.biz>
>> To: "'Nelson Wittstock'" <k8djc at zoominternet.net>; 
>> <Elecraft at mailman.qth.net>
>> Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2008 2:00 PM
>> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Soldering station
>>
>>
>> I just ordered the new KXV3 RXA board for my K3.  The instructions state
>> requirements for the soldering station to be used in the installation of 
>> the
>>
>> new board.  My workshop has never had need for "high tech" soldering and
>> consequently I do not own a soldering station.   I have several assorted
>> soldering irons and guns that have served me well in the past but I guess 
>> I
>> will have to join the modern world.  Since I would like to keep updating 
>> my
>> K3 it looks like I will need to buy a soldering station.  In looking 
>> through
>>
>> Googled references I see many stations in the $100 and up range.  Is it
>> absolutely necessary to spend that much to ensure the safety of my radio 
>> or
>> are there some less expensive suitable alternatives?
>>
>> Nelson - K8DJC
>>
>> ------------------------------------------
>>
>> That mod is one of the easiest in terms of soldering. You are soldering 
>> two
>> fine wires to closely-spaced connector terminals that, if overheated, will
>> melt the connector header or lift traces. But it's not nearly as critical 
>> as
>> many component installations in other locations. Two more leads are
>> connected to BNC connector terminals that require significant heat in any
>> case. The RXA board comes with the leads pre-attached, so there's no
>> soldering to do to the RXA board itself.
>>
>> It's a judgment call. Elecraft wants you to be successful and your chance 
>> of
>> having trouble is greatly reduced by using the right tools, and a good
>> soldering station is a tool you'll use again and again if you do any work 
>> on
>> your rigs.
>>
>> You can get away with less. I've repaired a lot of SMD circuit boards
>> sitting cross-legged on the deck in the navigating bridge of a ship using 
>> a
>> portable butane-powered soldering iron while holding a flashlight in my
>> teeth.
>>
>> I've also had lots and lots of practice over decades of soldering that 
>> lets
>> me judge the temperature of the tip by the smell and, by being very, very
>> careful, I've yet to destroy a board or parts. I did have the advantage of
>> "growing up" with the pc board industry, first working on boards back in 
>> the
>> 1960s that had large push-in pins to which leads were soldered, then 
>> boards
>> with big thick, wide traces that have slowly evolved into the tissue-thin,
>> tiny traces we find on many boards today.
>>
>> Even so, whenever possible I'll use a temperature-controlled soldering
>> station in a comfortable, well-lit shop.
>>
>> Over time, I've found that a good soldering station costs me pennies a 
>> month
>> to own and use. I don't consider that too much to spend to protect circuit
>> boards, almost any one of which is worth more than the iron.
>>
>> I currently have a Hakko 936 that cost me less than $100 several years ago
>> from www.tequipment.net.
>>
>> Bottom line, it's a matter of how skilled you are at soldering and how 
>> much
>> risk you are comfortable taking with the pc board and components.
>>
>> Ron AC7AC
>>
>>
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>
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