[Elecraft] new solder

Mon Feb 18 18:10:39 EST 2008

Yes that is what it does.  It will always crust over and have a matte almost
corroded look to it.  I've been working with the stuff for a few years now
and there are all sorts of fun issues that you run into with the hotter
solder profiles and making the plastics on your connectors brittle and what
not.

All of our products have to pass 50 6 foot drops at multiple angles and
especially with BGA parts and this new solder that can be a fun one to
figure out.  But no where near as fun as ensuring that all of our products
can take 25KV air discharge with out even so much as a reboot.

-----Original Message-----
From: elecraft-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Charles Harpole
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 2:10 PM
To: Oliver Johns; bud73 at comcast.net
Cc: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] new solder

I have some of the new solder with the non-toxic flux and no lead.  I get
what looks like cold joints regardless of the heat applied.... many tries,
same result.  Anyone else get the same?  73Charles Harpolek4vud at hotmail.com
> From: ojohns at metacosmos.org> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 toroid winding>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 13:54:28 -0800> To: bud73 at comcast.net> CC:
Elecraft at mailman.qth.net> > Dear Bud,> > Winding the toroids is easy.
Tinning the leads is hard, unless you > have a solder pot or some such.
That's where the Toroid Guy > <toroidguy at earthlink.net> shines. His are
beautifully tinned. Saves > you from potential bad solders onto the boards.>
> Oliver Johns> W6ODJ> > > On 18 Feb 2008, at 12:38 AM, Dave Andrus wrote:>
> > Bud:> >> > I've seen the advice, and it's all excellent, but for someone
new > > to the art, it might still sound just a bit intimidating ("remember
> > to do this, don't forget to do that"), so I'll offer my 2 cents > > just
to try and make it a bit worse!> >> > Remember that it's only mysterious
until you've actually wound your > > first toroid. After that, it's all
mostly downhill (with the wind > > at your back, usually)!> >> > Remember
that you're going to get a (typically) excellent manual > > from Elecraft
that goes out of its way to show you pictures and > > give lots of good
advice when you need it--at the moment you're > > winding the first toroid.
I've done lots and lots of toroids, and > > I still was impressed with the
graphics, winding instructions and > > lead dressing advice that's in the
manual. So, don't be afraid to > > try--they're really not hard at all, just
new to someone that's > > never done one before. In fact, one could say that
they're no > > harder than winding any inductor, and in some ways quite a
bit easier.> >> > If you try your first one, and you're still not sure if
it's right, > > take a quickie digital picture of your finished toroid, and
email > > it to either Elecraft's great tech support folks or here on the >
> reflector (just don't send big attachements if you can avoid it). > > Then
ask, "Hey, how does this one look?" Guaranteed you'll have > > lots of
seasoned eyes looking over your shoulder.> >> > Don't be afraid to try. Oh,
and did I forget to mention that I > > ordered my recent K2 toroid set from
Mychael, the coil guy!? He's > > quick (had them in 3 days from across the
country), not too > > expensive, and his toroids look great. Hey, I already
know how to > > wind 'em. Don't need more practice ;-)> >> > It cut a couple
of hours off of my build time.> >> > 73,> >> > Dave K7DAA> >> >
http://www.k7daa.com> >> > On Feb 17, 2008, at 4:37 PM, John R. Lonigro
wrote:> >> >> Bud:> >> Here's a little tip (I'll leave the poetry to Wayne):
The first > >> winding tends to be the loosest, so wind N + 1 turns and then
> >> remove the first one, ending up with the correct number. But make > >>
sure you double check the number of turns. Being off by "only" 1 > >> turn
may not sound bad, but in many cases it represents a big > >> increase in
inductance, possibly over 10%. As others have said, > >> just count the
number of times the wire passes through the center > >> of the toroid.> >>>
>> I've easily wound well over 100 toroids in the past few years and > >>
have never had a problem with winding them. Be especially careful > >>
stripping the wire before soldering it into the circuit. You can > >> search
the archives for various techniques. One thing I do in > >> that regard is
insert the part BEFORE stripping the wire, to check > >> for proper fit.
Then I trim it, leaving maybe 1/8" extra on each > >> lead. Finally I remove
it and concentrate on stripping the wire > >> where I know it's going to be
contacting the solder pad. If you > >> don't trim it first, you'll end up
spending lots of time stripping > >> parts of the wire that will either be
snipped off after soldering > >> or will be nowhere near the solder pad.>
>>> >> 73's and good luck,> >>> >> John AA0VE> >> bud73 at comcast.net wrote:>
>>> I just ordered a K1 four band transceiver.> >>> I am worried about the
torroids .... should I be?> >>>> >>> Bud> >>>> >>
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