[Elecraft] Planning kit purchase

Fri Jan 19 17:53:12 EST 2007

Thanks for the great information.  I transposed the KAT100 with the 
KPA100 when talking about the computer interface, my mistake.  I wasn't 
sure what the W1SERKT is, as it is only mentioned on the price list, and 
the link;

http://www.elecraft.com/mini_module_kits/mini_modules.htm#w1

takes me to the wattmeter/swr bridge.

I do need to look at the flush cuts while I am out and about.  Good 
information on the mini modules, that is what I was looking for.  I'll 
take a read through the article this eventing.  Thanks.

David Wilburn
dave.wilburn at verizon.net

Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Dave,
> 
> Answering some of your questions:
> 
> I consider .032 solder too large - it is difficult to control the amount of
> solder with the large diameter stuff and by the time you get any solder on
> the connection, it is too much.  I recommend a diameter of .020 or smaller,
> I use .015 myself.  A 60/40 core is OK, but the 37/63 alloy is better yet.
> If you do buy new solder try to get one with a mildly activated flux.  Check
> Mouser www.mouser.com for a good selection of solder.
> 
> The effectiveness of the noise blanker depends on the type of noise that you
> encounter.  The KNB2 works well on impulse noise such as gasoline engine
> ignition noise.
> 
> I am not certain you have all the information quite correct about the K2 to
> KAT100 interface.  IF you have the KPA100 installed you do not need (and
> cannot use) the KIO2, but if you are going wait until later to add the
> KPA100, you will need the KIO2 to make the KAT100 function.
> 
> The KPA100 has an equivalent of the KIO2 interface built into it, and it is
> all you need to control the K2 from a computer.  The W1 is a different
> animal - it will operate 'standalone', but if you want computer
> communication with it, you can either build a cable from the drawing in the
> manual or buy the kit of parts W1SERKT to construct the cable.
> 
> With your DMM, you have all the tools (other than pliers, flush cutters,
> screwdrivers, etc.) needed to build and align your K2.  After you have it
> constructed and aligned, you may want the N-gen to help set your filters,
> but it is not required, and the XG1 or XG2 is handy if you want to make MDS
> measurements of the receiver and want a calibrated S-9 level signal to check
> your S-meter response.  What I am saying is that the mini-modules are an
> inexpensive way to begin an electronics lab, but are not needed to build and
> align the K2.
> 
> After your K2 build, you may want to do a precise dial calibration and
> filter alignment, but that can be done using only the K2, WWV reception, and
> Spectrogram running on your computer.  I have an article on K2 dial
> calibration on my website http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com that tells you all you
> need to know (and more) about the procedure.  Look at it after your K2 is up
> and running.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> ...
>> Solder-I have a roll of RadioShack PN64-009E .032 diameter 60/40
>> "standard rosin-core" solder.  Based on what I am reading in the
>> archives, and not intending to start a "silver/no silver/lead/no lead
>> discussion, the solder I have on hand (almost a complete 8oz roll) will
>> be sufficient.  I have a grounded soldering iron, that has multiple heat
>> levels.
>>
>> Additionally I have a low wattage iron with a pencil tip.  It has been
>> interesting watching the talk about the "pads and holes" and such.  I
>> worked on the hardware side of main frame computers in the 80s, and
>> dealt with multi-layer boards (6 or 7 layers) as well as the simple
>> PCBs.  I know how much fun such a system can be for re-work.
>>
>> I currently have a Fluke DMM, and I have just ordered a Fluke 115 which
>> does frequency and capacitance.  I am going to head down to Harbor
>> Freight some time this weekend and see if they have some of the over
>> head magnifiers.  I have a place to work on the kit, but I do need to
>> work on the lighting a bit.
>>
>> Noise blanker-If I am operating from home, is this needed?  I'm kinda on
>> the fence with this one.  My only experience with NB are on the
>> commercial rigs.  I understand this one is better, but I have never
>> really seen any impact from using any of them.  The archives seem to
>> prove that user either love or hate this one.  Which does seem unusual
>> as that is the primary choices.
>>
>> It is stated on the website, that by installing the KAT100-1, there is
>> no need for the KI02 interface.  Just want to ensure I will have
>> everything I need for computer control.  I understand I will need their
>> serial kit.  Is this what W1SERKT is?  The webpage seems to be broken
>> for this.  The price list shows it, with a link, but the link goes to
>> the "W1 140W Computing Wattmeter and SWR Bridge".
>>
>> I plan on contacting "Rework eliminators" with my purchase list, and see
>> what I need to get from them to fully integrate their products into the
>> process.
>>
>> Mini modules - The choices of the mini-modules is quite broad.  What
>> would be useful for building the above kits?  The N-gen and 2T-gen seem
>> useful for the alignment, but is one more useful than the other?  The
>> XG2 seems like it would be quite useful.  Is there a need in the test
>> and alignment for an attenuator such as ATI?
>>
>> 160m module-I have not found a way to get a 160m antenna up that suits
>> me.  But for the price and getting the extra receive port, this seems
>> like it might be worthwhile. Any thoughts?
>>
>> Any other thoughts about the "plan"?  Anything I have overlooked?
>> --
>>
>> David Wilburn
>> dave.wilburn at verizon.net
>> K4DGW
>> http://www.qsl.net/k4dgw
>> http://www.qsl.net/waarc
>>
>>
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