[Elecraft] Type "N" connectors

Sat Apr 21 10:55:19 EDT 2007

I'm surprised to hear that.  I understand it was the aircraft industry that 
developed crimping as a more reliable way to make joints than soldering, at 
least for regular wiring in aircraft.

Having seen a lot of bad soldering and assembly of PL259s done by my amateur 
friends, I have a mind to buy a crimper set for the club so the members can 
make quality connections to the plugs of their choice.

David
G3UNA

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Brian " <slimycheez at alltel.net>
To: <elecraft at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 3:31 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors

> Hello all,
>
> Just my 2 cents.  I don't own any type N connectors personally, but I do
> work on military aircraft and have never seen a UHF connector used.
> Crimping is not allowed; soldering is the only option for everything.
>
> 73
> Brian
> N1WNC
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: elecraft-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jack Smith
> Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 8:19 AM
> To: Larry Phipps
> Cc: w3fpr at arrl.net; elecraft at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors
>
> I bought my tool and die sets from RF Parts http://www.rfparts.com/.
>
> I have seen what seems to be  the same tool at about half  the price
> searching around on the internet a while ago, but I can't be sure if it
> is exactly the same.  RF Connection http://www.therfc.com/ also has an
> interchangable die tool that's more reasonablly priced, but again I
> can't be sure it's the same.
>
> It looks the same, but it's hard to judge a tool without having it in
> your hands.  And Don is 100% right, a cheap tool is no bargain if it
> breaks or does not do the job right.
>
> I would look for a ratcheting type tool, as crimping RG213/214 size
> cable requires a lot of pressure and the ratcheting feature helps. I
> don't think even a ratcheting tool will work for larger cables, such as
> LMR600, where you need a lot of force. I believe those use a hydraulic
> crimper.
>
> I wound up with three die sets to cover the work I do.
>
> Jack
>
>
> Larry Phipps wrote:
>> Thanks Jack. That begs the question for us lazy types... which
>> supplier is cheapest?
>>
>> 73,
>> Larry N8LP
>>
>>
>> Jack Smith wrote:
>>> I would add  that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the
>>> ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors as
>>> well.
>>>
>>> I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them
>>> superior to solder-type connectors. Some crimp connectors are
>>> double-crimp, i.e., both the center pin and shield are crimped and
>>> others have a solder-type center pin and crimp shield.
>>>
>>> It's important that the crimp connector be the correct one for the
>>> coax type and that you use the correct die size, of course. Some
>>> crimp tools have interchangeable die sets and others are made with a
>>> non-removable die.
>>>
>>> If you decide to buy a crimp tool, shop around, as there is at least
>>> a 2:1 price variation from supplier-to-supplier for what seems to be
>>> the same tool.
>>>
>>> Jack K8ZOA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Don Wilhelm wrote:
>>>> John,
>>>>
>>>> I too have come to the conclusion that working with BNC and N
>>>> connectors is actually a lot easier than UHF types.
>>>>
>>>> But I continually hear from hams that look at the K2 and point to
>>>> the BNC connector on the QRP unit then comment "THAT would HAVE to
>>>> be changed to a UHF type - that is all I use".
>>>>
>>>> Somehow there seems to be a prevalent opinion that BNC and N
>>>> connectors are harder to assemble than UHF, but I find exactly the
>>>> opposite to be true.  While it IS easy to assemble a UHF connector
>>>> improperly and have it 'work' (after a fashion), improperly
>>>> assembled BNC/N/TNC/C connectors usually won't work at all.  In the
>>>> past, I subscribed to the 'UHF is easier' camp until I discovered
>>>> that my only failing with BNC and N connectors was that I did not
>>>> pay enough attention to the coax stripping length instructions.
>>>>
>>>> I have finally invested in a set of ratchet crimpers so I can use
>>>> crimp style connectors - that makes the BNC/N/TNC/C connectors MUCH
>>>> easier to assemble than the UHF type - but one must still be careful
>>>> about cutting the coax correctly.
>>>>
>>>> 73,
>>>> Don W3FPR
>>>>
>>>> John GM4SLV wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> <hobby horse>
>>>>>
>>>>> But in terms of being a PITA to put the plugs on correctly, and mostly
>>>>> these days they seem made of soft cheese, I'd have a /real/ RF
>>>>> connector over a "UHF" one any day.
>>>>>
>>>>> Proper N/BNC/TNC/C types, with pressure sleave and "top hat"
>>>>> ferrule for
>>>>> under the braid are a joy to fit, requiring a knife, a pair of small
>>>>> sidecutters, a _small_ soldering iron for the centre pin only and a
>>>>> couple of small spanners to do up the clamp nut. No messing about with
>>>>> soldering guns, blow torches or whatever people use to try and make a
>>>>> decent fist of soldering the braid (or usually just relying on
>>>>> pressure
>>>>> and the mstical force of gravity to hold the braid in contact with the
>>>>> shell of the plug).
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I agree that nobody is going to notice a performance problem with
>>>>> "UHF" connectors at HF but they just feel wrong to me...
>>>>>
>>>>> I didn't even know Elecraft used 259s on some of their products (only
>>>>> having a barefoot K2 and a K1) and it kinda surprises me. They use
>>>>> BNCs
>>>>> on the rigs...why not continue that to the PA? Even a BNC is adequate
>>>>> for the power levels involved and anyone with a K2 must be happy with
>>>>> working with BNCs already....
>>>>>
>>>>> </hobby horse>
>>>>>
>>>>> Cheers,
>>>>>
>>>>> John GM4SLV
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