[Elecraft] Type "N" connectors

[Jack Smith]

I would add  that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the 
ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors as well.

I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them 
superior to solder-type connectors. Some crimp connectors are 
double-crimp, i.e., both the center pin and shield are crimped and 
others have a solder-type center pin and crimp shield.

It's important that the crimp connector be the correct one for the coax 
type and that you use the correct die size, of course. Some crimp tools 
have interchangeable die sets and others are made with a non-removable die.

If you decide to buy a crimp tool, shop around, as there is at least a 
2:1 price variation from supplier-to-supplier for what seems to be the 
same tool.

Jack K8ZOA



Don Wilhelm wrote:
> John,
>
> I too have come to the conclusion that working with BNC and N 
> connectors is actually a lot easier than UHF types.
>
> But I continually hear from hams that look at the K2 and point to the 
> BNC connector on the QRP unit then comment "THAT would HAVE to be 
> changed to a UHF type - that is all I use".
>
> Somehow there seems to be a prevalent opinion that BNC and N 
> connectors are harder to assemble than UHF, but I find exactly the 
> opposite to be true.  While it IS easy to assemble a UHF connector 
> improperly and have it 'work' (after a fashion), improperly assembled 
> BNC/N/TNC/C connectors usually won't work at all.  In the past, I 
> subscribed to the 'UHF is easier' camp until I discovered that my only 
> failing with BNC and N connectors was that I did not pay enough 
> attention to the coax stripping length instructions.
>
> I have finally invested in a set of ratchet crimpers so I can use 
> crimp style connectors - that makes the BNC/N/TNC/C connectors MUCH 
> easier to assemble than the UHF type - but one must still be careful 
> about cutting the coax correctly.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> John GM4SLV wrote:
>
>> <hobby horse>
>>
>> But in terms of being a PITA to put the plugs on correctly, and mostly
>> these days they seem made of soft cheese, I'd have a /real/ RF
>> connector over a "UHF" one any day.
>>
>> Proper N/BNC/TNC/C types, with pressure sleave and "top hat" ferrule for
>> under the braid are a joy to fit, requiring a knife, a pair of small
>> sidecutters, a _small_ soldering iron for the centre pin only and a
>> couple of small spanners to do up the clamp nut. No messing about with
>> soldering guns, blow torches or whatever people use to try and make a
>> decent fist of soldering the braid (or usually just relying on pressure
>> and the mstical force of gravity to hold the braid in contact with the
>> shell of the plug).
>>
>>
>> I agree that nobody is going to notice a performance problem with
>> "UHF" connectors at HF but they just feel wrong to me...
>>
>> I didn't even know Elecraft used 259s on some of their products (only
>> having a barefoot K2 and a K1) and it kinda surprises me. They use BNCs
>> on the rigs...why not continue that to the PA? Even a BNC is adequate
>> for the power levels involved and anyone with a K2 must be happy with
>> working with BNCs already....
>>
>> </hobby horse>
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> John GM4SLV
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