[Elecraft] Standalone K2 Amp?

[Tom Zeltwanger]

Don,

Thanks for the heads-up. I am just now building the KIO2 and getting ready to
start the KAT100-2 next. Maybe I will try the tuner with the QRP rig first to
make sure everything is working, then remote the KPA100 with the tuner.

I have an old RF choke core assortment somewhere. I will see if I can't find
something in there that I can use. 



73,

Tom KG3V



Quoting Don Wilhelm <w3fpr at earthlink.net>:

> Tom and all,
> 
> If you remote both the KPA100 and the KAT100 --
> 
> In addition to the 'instructions' below, you may have to change L1 on 
> the KIO2 AUX2 board (the one that plugs onto the control board) with a 
> higher current choke.
> 
> With both the KPA100 and the KAT100 drawing current from the 12CTRL 
> line, the sub-miniature choke does not have enough current capacity. 
> Either the KPA100 or the KAT100 alone will be OK with the stock choke, 
> but both together may cause the smoke to be released from the choke.
> 
> A small ferrite toroid core with 10 to 12 turns on it is a good solution 
> - the inductance is not critical.  An FT23-43 like that used for the RF 
> Chokes on the KSB2 board with 12 turns fits nicely.
> 
> 73,
> Don w3FPR
> 
> Don Wilhelm wrote:
> > Tom,
> > 
> > I don't believe there are any explicit instructions - BUT -
> > If you assemble the KAT100-2 and put it into an EC2 enclosure, the 
> > mating of the KPA100 should be fairly obvious.  There is a header on the 
> > KAT100-2 board to accept the ribbon cable from the KPA100, a 2 pin 
> > header for the RF input connector and another 2 pin header for the DC 
> > power. (BTW, Elecraft offers a kit to change the KAT100-1 to a KAT100-2 
> > which includes the required headers).
> > 
> > For the external connections, you need only 3 - 1) DC power to the 
> > KPA100 (the KAT100 receives its power from the internal cable from the 
> > KPA100.  2) The control cable is just like that one shown in the manual 
> > for the KAT100, and plugs in just like the normal KAT100 cable (that is 
> > where the KIO2 is required in the QRP K2).  3) Use a short piece of coax 
> > with BNC connectors between the QRP K2 (either the ANT OUT jack or with 
> > the KAT2 installed, the ANT1 jack from the KAT2).  The other end of the 
> > coax connects to the AUX RF input jack on the KAT100 rear panel.
> > 
> > That is all there is to it - set the menus just the same as if the 
> > KPA100 was installed internally.
> > 
> > If the KPA100 is installed in the EC2 enclosure without the KAT100, the 
> > situation is only a little different - one must install a BNC input jack 
> > on the EC2 back panel and connect the KPA100 input coax to it (order the 
> > mating header from Elecraft and solder it to the back of the BNC 
> > connector for the easiest installation).  The control cable (just like 
> > the one used with the KAT100) plugs between the KIO2 and the KPA100 AUX 
> > I/O, and of course DC to the KPA100 rear panel power jack.  That is it, 
> >  not really difficult at all.
> > 
> > 73,
> > Don W3FPR
> > 
> > Tom Zeltwanger wrote:
> >> Don,
> >>
> >> I now have all the pieces to do this (remote the KPA100 and KAT100-2). 
> >> I have seen many discussions on this subject, and I know there are 
> >> directions out there for doing this. Is there any one set of 
> >> directions that is best in terms of describing all the steps? I don't 
> >> necessarily need photos, but I need something that covers everything 
> >> that needs to be done.
> >>
> >> 73,
> >>
> >> Tom KG3V
> >>
> > 
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