[Elecraft] Yahoo-o-o-o-o !!

Mon Apr 2 18:53:45 EDT 2007

Agree. There is no reason to use a straight key, but if you like it, that is
fine. It will hinder you if you eventually want to go much faster, and I believe
it will cause more fatigue too. 

The idea that you NEED to use a straight key before you use a paddle, I just
don't buy, especially if you already know the code. To me, this is like saying
you have to shoot a pistol before you try a rifle.

To each his own.

... enough of this, back to Elecraft gear......

73,

Tom KG3V

Quoting David Wilburn <dave.wilburn at verizon.net>:

> I agree 100%, but people aren't learning code sitting at their elmer's 
> knee anymore.  They are buying a three dollar key and hammering away.  I 
> hear all crap all the time.  Then they try to go faster, or put a little 
> swing in it.  Don't get me started.....
> 
> All of this is probably not a big deal for someone with many of hours of 
> CW under their belt.  They can sort the wheat from the chaff and figure 
> it out.  Often as not, I am struggling to understand them in the first 
> place.  If they start running the letters together, I have to just turn 
> the dial, because I can't even start to make sense of them.
> 
> I agree standard wisdom in the past was to start with a straight key, 
> but if they are sitting down by themselves, with a straight key, how are 
> they supposed to know how to send good code?  If they get good with a 
> paddle and keyer, then they might know what it sounds like, and they 
> will have a starting point from which to try to mimic the sounds with a 
> straight key.  Back when whomever it was that said to start with a 
> straight key, there were probably many great brass pounders out there to 
> listen to.  I have heard K4UK, from FISTs, send beautiful code with a 
> straight key.  Many, including myself, cannot do that.
> 
> On the few times I do use a straight key, I take my time and try to make 
> it sound just like it does with the keyer.
> 
> As pointed out though, even a paddle doesn't stop them from running the 
> letters together.  That really does drive me nuts.
> 
> I promise to stay off my soapbox for a while.
> 
> David Wilburn
> dave.wilburn at verizon.net
> K4DGW
> K2 #5982
> 
> 
> Brett gazdzinski wrote:
> >  
> > I never used a paddle or keyer, but have had hundreds of long QSO's 
> > in the past, like 20 years ago.
> > 
> > Like everyone else, I think my sending sounds super....
> > 
> > I know what good CW sounds like, and there is a lot of very
> > poor stuff on the air, last night I heard someone who
> > always sent an extra dot on the letters S and H...
> > 
> > I have most problems coping when people do not separate the letters
> > but drool them all together.
> > 
> > I like a straight key, never used any sort of bug or keyer, and kind
> > of think that's cheating, I am not after DX nor will I be 
> > entering any contests, and don't want to dazzle anyone with 
> > my 95 wpm CW, I think you can do it with computers now, cant you?
> > My old VIC 20 with the AIR1 card did that I think.
> > (remember THEM?)
> > 
> > I will try cleaning my old key up, its been sitting for about 20
> > years, and don't think it was ever very quality...
> > 
> > Brett
> > N2DTS
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Tom Hammond [mailto:n0ss at earthlink.net] 
> >> Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 1:25 PM
> >> To: Brett gazdzinski
> >> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Yahoo-o-o-o-o !!
> >>
> >> Hi Brett:
> >>
> >>> Can anyone recommend a good basic key?
> >>> I have an old radio shack brass but the contacts
> >>> are shot I think, it acts a bit funky sometimes.
> >> Are you looking for a STRAIGHT KEY, or a PADDLE?
> >>
> >> If you plan to actually WORK CW and to improve your CW proficiency, 
> >> I'd not recommend that you invest too heavily in a straight key, but 
> >> something in the <$20 range might work well... UNLESS you fully 
> >> intend to NOT graduate up to using a keyer once you hit your limit of 
> >> sending speed with straight hand-sent CW. Most folks can send decent 
> >> straight-key-sent CW up to about 20-23 WPM, but then the arm/wrist 
> >> goes and quality begins to suffer... as does the body... and the ears 
> >> of the op on the other end.
> >>
> >> If you intend up eventually switch to a keyer, then decide how much 
> >> you're willing to invest in a straight key... how long you plan to 
> >> use it... and whether the investment is well-amortized over the 
> >> length of time you'll use it.
> >>
> >> Paddles are available for $20 on up. I'm not certain they get 
> >> terribly much BETTER with a significant increase in price... probably 
> >> a bit better, however. It'll be up to you to decide what 
> >> it'll be worth to you.
> >>
> >> Morse Express ( http://www.morsex.com/  )offers a fairly wide range 
> >> of STRAIGHT KEYS/BUG/PADDLES in an even wider range of prices.
> >>
> >> Of course, there are always all sorts of keys/paddles available on 
> >> the EHAM.COM FOR SALE site and in EBAY.
> >>
> >> Regarding your R/S brass straight key:
> >>
> >>   1) Be sure that the bearings are properly seated and 'snugged'
> >>      down to the point that they make good electrical contact but
> >>      NOT so tight that the armature doesn't work smoothly!
> >>
> >>   2) Use a DOLLAR BILL between the contacts to clean them!!!
> >>
> >>      NEVER use anything which is abrasive!!! PERIOD!!! If the
> >>      contacts happen to be silver/ or gold plated, you'll succeed
> >>      in removing all traces of the plating with the 1st or 2nd
> >>      swipe!
> >>
> >>      A U.S. DOLLAR BILL has high rag content and does a wonderful
> >>      job of removing oxidation without removing plating (if any
> >>      exists).
> >>
> >>   3) TIGHTEN all electrical connection hardware (exc. the bearings).
> >>
> >>   4) Set the spring tension such that there is enough resistance to
> >>      your presses that you can feel the resistance. You should NOT
> >>      have to 'work' to close the contacts, but they should offer
> >>      some resistance
> >>
> >>   5) Set the contact spacing such that you get a bit of both tactile
> >>      AND audible feedback when you're sending. The thickness of a
> >>      business card is a good starting point for setting beginning
> >>      contact spacing.
> >>
> >>   6) PRACTICE A LOT
> >>
> >> 73,
> >>
> >> Tom Hammond    N0SS
> >>
> > 
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