[Elecraft] Yahoo-o-o-o-o !!

[Brett gazdzinski]

I never used a paddle or keyer, but have had hundreds of long QSO's 
in the past, like 20 years ago.

Like everyone else, I think my sending sounds super....

I know what good CW sounds like, and there is a lot of very
poor stuff on the air, last night I heard someone who
always sent an extra dot on the letters S and H...

I have most problems coping when people do not separate the letters
but drool them all together.

I like a straight key, never used any sort of bug or keyer, and kind
of think that's cheating, I am not after DX nor will I be 
entering any contests, and don't want to dazzle anyone with 
my 95 wpm CW, I think you can do it with computers now, cant you?
My old VIC 20 with the AIR1 card did that I think.
(remember THEM?)

I will try cleaning my old key up, its been sitting for about 20
years, and don't think it was ever very quality...

Brett
N2DTS





> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tom Hammond [mailto:n0ss at earthlink.net] 
> Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 1:25 PM
> To: Brett gazdzinski
> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Yahoo-o-o-o-o !!
> 
> Hi Brett:
> 
> >Can anyone recommend a good basic key?
> >I have an old radio shack brass but the contacts
> >are shot I think, it acts a bit funky sometimes.
> 
> Are you looking for a STRAIGHT KEY, or a PADDLE?
> 
> If you plan to actually WORK CW and to improve your CW proficiency, 
> I'd not recommend that you invest too heavily in a straight key, but 
> something in the <$20 range might work well... UNLESS you fully 
> intend to NOT graduate up to using a keyer once you hit your limit of 
> sending speed with straight hand-sent CW. Most folks can send decent 
> straight-key-sent CW up to about 20-23 WPM, but then the arm/wrist 
> goes and quality begins to suffer... as does the body... and the ears 
> of the op on the other end.
> 
> If you intend up eventually switch to a keyer, then decide how much 
> you're willing to invest in a straight key... how long you plan to 
> use it... and whether the investment is well-amortized over the 
> length of time you'll use it.
> 
> Paddles are available for $20 on up. I'm not certain they get 
> terribly much BETTER with a significant increase in price... probably 
> a bit better, however. It'll be up to you to decide what 
> it'll be worth to you.
> 
> Morse Express ( http://www.morsex.com/  )offers a fairly wide range 
> of STRAIGHT KEYS/BUG/PADDLES in an even wider range of prices.
> 
> Of course, there are always all sorts of keys/paddles available on 
> the EHAM.COM FOR SALE site and in EBAY.
> 
> Regarding your R/S brass straight key:
> 
>   1) Be sure that the bearings are properly seated and 'snugged'
>      down to the point that they make good electrical contact but
>      NOT so tight that the armature doesn't work smoothly!
> 
>   2) Use a DOLLAR BILL between the contacts to clean them!!!
> 
>      NEVER use anything which is abrasive!!! PERIOD!!! If the
>      contacts happen to be silver/ or gold plated, you'll succeed
>      in removing all traces of the plating with the 1st or 2nd
>      swipe!
> 
>      A U.S. DOLLAR BILL has high rag content and does a wonderful
>      job of removing oxidation without removing plating (if any
>      exists).
> 
>   3) TIGHTEN all electrical connection hardware (exc. the bearings).
> 
>   4) Set the spring tension such that there is enough resistance to
>      your presses that you can feel the resistance. You should NOT
>      have to 'work' to close the contacts, but they should offer
>      some resistance
> 
>   5) Set the contact spacing such that you get a bit of both tactile
>      AND audible feedback when you're sending. The thickness of a
>      business card is a good starting point for setting beginning
>      contact spacing.
> 
>   6) PRACTICE A LOT
> 
> 73,
> 
> Tom Hammond    N0SS
>